4 » 




PR1SC1LLA 

Wool Knitting 
Book 



* > 









I 



Published by 

ThePriscilIaPubhshing Co. 

Boston, Mass. 



+w$xm$wm 



! \ > 



!> 



;' ' 



.%: '. 



| 



*, • * v *; < * 



A *•. "*** *i. <K 4»- ■#; •+ . -**! ** *i ^ * 






* * <*> #> 



4 4 +JS 

r * + * 4 



H. 



* * 



v * *•-■ ' * .* V, i. *>. » *. ' A' I 



* * <• «■ 



} PiaSCILLA { 

\ FancyWopk 

J (Xtalogue 



kHKaji 







This Book 



Contains Upwards 
of 1500 Fancy Work 
Designs — 

Price 10 Cents 



WHY IT WAS PUBLISHED 

For many years The Modern Priscilla {the leading 
fancy-work magazine of America) has given its readers each 
month a large number of rarely beautiful original designs for 
every use that Art Needlework can be put to. Also Priscilla 
has given to the world during past years an endless variety of 
designs for that easy, fascinating and most effective work — 
Stenciling. 

Until recently, however, these designs were available 
only forthose who possessed copies of the magazines in which 
they were originally published. But so great was the demand 
for a catalogue, that the editors of The Modern Priscilla 
were finally persuaded to make a careful compilation of all 
designs that the test of time had proved to be of exceptional 
merit, and thus it was that The Priscilla Fancy-Work Cata- 
logue came into existence. 

WHAT IT CONTAINS 

In this book will be found upwards of 1500 designs. 
Every kind of embroidery used by modern needleworkers is 
represented, and whether it be simple work that you desire, 
or elaborate and complex, somewhere on these pages you 
will find exactly the thing you are looking for. 

HOLIDAY NOVELTIES 

There are designs for Holiday Novelties, suitable for gifts • 
for all occasions, such as Glove, Tie and Handkerchief Cases 

— Powder, Soap, Sponge and Jewelry Bags and Cases — Veil, 
Stamp and Comb and Brush Cases — Whisk Broom Holders, 
Shaving Pads, Penwipers, and Pincushions of all shapes and 
sizes — Pin Books and Pin Balls — Needlebooks and Calendars 

— Post Card, Darning Cotton and Teapot Holders — Book 
Racks, Note Books, and Magazine Covers — Sewing Cases, 
Suspenders, Work Bags, Opera Bags, Sachet Bags and Collar 
Bags — Candle Shades, Photograph Frames, Napkin Rings 
and Napkin Holders. 



DRESSGARNITURE AND HOUSEHOLD LINENS 

In another section will be found a beautiful assortment of 
Stocks, Dutch Collars and Jabots, and following it, a showing 
of Fancy Aprons in a wide variety of shapes and styles. 
Further along some Embroidered Belts, with 20 designs to 
choose from, and 45 exquisite designs for Embroidered Hose. 
Then follow dozens of designs for Towel Ends, scores of de- 
signs for Centrepieces, Doilies and Lunch Cloths, still more 
designs for Bureau, Sideboard, Table and Piano Scarfs, and 
pages of designs for Pillow Covers. 

LINGERIE AND BABY CLOTHES 

Still other pages show Insertion and Edging designs, de- 
signs for Nightgowns, Corset Covers, Combinations, Shirt 
Waists and Costumes, designs for Babies' One-piece Nightin- 
gales, Baby Bonnets, Yokes and Little Dresses, Bibs, Shoes, 
Hats and Collars. 

A PIG STENCILING SECTION 

In the section devoted to Stenciling will be found instruc- 
tions for mixing and applying colors, and over 200 different 
designs that may be used for every conceivable kind of deco- 
ration to which stenciling is applicable. 

MATERIALS AND ACCESSORIES 

Finally, ten different styles of letters for marking house- 
hold linens are shown, and all sorts of embroidery materials 
and accessories are pictured and listed. 

THE PRICE A NOMINAL ONE 

This book might easily be worth ten times its small cost 
to any woman interested in Needlework, but it is not the 
desire of the publishers to make money on the sale of the 
book, only to cover the cost of production and distribution. 
Therefore, it is offered to all who desire it, at the nominal 
price of 10 cents per copy, postpaid. 



FREE 



The section of the above catalogue devoted to all kinds of embroidery ma- 
terials and accessories, a mine of useful information for needleworkers, will 
be sent on request, free of charge, to any address. 



Address 
orders to 



The Priscilla Publishing Co., 85 Broad St., Boston. Mass. 



|3rt£cflla knitting poofe 

A SELECTION OF USEFUL ARTICLES FROM 
THE MODERN PRISCILLA 

WITH 

SEVERAL NEW DESIGNS 

NEVER BEFORE PUBLISHED 
EDITED BY 

GWEN KEYS 
19 8 

REVISED 1 91 2 



PUBLISHED BY 

Wi)t $rt£cilla ^ubltgfjmg Company 

85 BROAD STREET, BOSTON, MASS. 



Copyright, 1912, by The Priscilla Publishing Company 

Trade Mark Reg. U. S. Patent Office 

Entered at Stationers' Hall, London 

All rights reserved 



CONTENTS 

Articles for Men and Women 



■u 



^ 



Sweaters 3 

How to Make Sweaters of all Kinds by Pattern 4 

Stocking Top 6 

Stocking Top 6 

Bath Cloth 7 

Openwork Stocking Tops 7 

Man's Golf Hose 8 

Suspenders 9 

Man's Auto Cap 10 

Man's Gauntlets 10 

Man's Evening Scarf 11 

Man's Slippers 12 

Man's Wristers 13 

Man's Comforter 13 

Lady's Slippers 13 

Lady's Undervest 14 

Motor Scarf 15 

Motor Scarf 15 

Scarf Shawl 15 

Hug-Me-Tight 16 

Hug-Me-Tight 16 



Head Wrap 17 

Opera Hood 18 

Theatre Hood 19 

Beaded Wristers 19 

Shawl 19 

Negligee Sack 21 

Bed Socks 22 

Lung Protector 22 

Lady's Silk Mittens 22 

Bath Mitten 23 

Knee Caps 24 

Lady's Skirt 24 

Knee Caps 25 

Lady's Golf Vest 25 

Lady's Golf Stocking 26 

Shoulder Scarf 26 

Bag 27 

Cape 27 

Sleeveless Jacket 28 

Loop Knitting 28 



Articles for Babies and Children 



Child's Sweater 29 

Child's Vest 30 

Child's Stockings 30 

Child's Stockings '31 

Child's Gaiters 31 

Orange Pincushion 32 

Child's Leggings 32 

Child's Mittens 32 

Boy's Mittens 33 

Child's Dutch Bonnet 33 

Baby's Hood 34 

Baby's Jacket 35 

Child's Skirt 36 

Child's Mittens 36 

Baby's Hood t>7 

Baby's Sack 37 

Baby's Jacket 38 



Baby's Silk Socks 38 

Baby's Boots 39 

Baby's Overdrawers 40 

Baby's Vest 40 

Baby's Socks 41 

Baby's Thumbless Mittens 41 

Baby's Oversocks 42 

Baby's Veil 42 

Infant's Hood 43 

Infant's Socks 44 

Infant's Vest 45 

Infant's Socks 45 

Infant's Bootees 46 

Toy Reins 46 

Child's Dutch Hood 47 

Baby Boy's Cap 48 



©CI.A329086 






I Articles for Men and Women I 



Explanation of Stitches 



K — knit plain. P — purl, or as it is sometimes called, 
Seam. N or K 2 tog— Narrow, by knitting two together. Over. 
or t t — Throw the thread over the needle before inserting in 
the next stitch. This makes a loop, which is always to be con- 
sidered a stitch in the succeeding rows or rounds. Tw — twist 
stitch. Insert the needle in the back of the stitch to be knitted, 
and knit as usual. SI — slip a stitch from the left-hand to the 
right-hand needle without knitting it. SI and B — Slip and bind — 



slip one stitch, knit the next; pass the slipped one over it, ex- 
actly as if binding off a piece of work at the end. * indicates 
a repetition, and is used merely to save words. "*S1 1, k 1, p 1, 
repeat from * 3 times" — would be equivalent to saying si 1, k 1, 
p 1 ; si 1, k 1, p 1 ; si 1, k 1, p 1. Tog means together. Fagot 
means thread over twice, purl two together. Other special terms 
are explained when given. 



SWEATERS 

For many practical purposes sweaters seem to 
have an increased rather than a diminished hold. 
The one given below is for a 34 or 36 inch bust. 
Golf yarn with No. 9 needles seems to give about 
four stitches to the inch; No. 14 needles are needed 
for the neck. Whatever the number of needles, 
you need to get about four stitches to the inch, or 
perhaps nine stitches to the two inches in width, 
and six stitches to one inch of the finer needles. 
For the 36-inch bust you must get four stitches to 
the inch ; for 34-inch, you may get nine stitches to 
two inches. 

Cast on 70 stitches. 

Note. — In writing up this sweater there is 
nothing said as to the ribbing, etc., as that may be 
done in any way desired. The manner of working 
is given. An odd stitch or two can be added, if 
needed, for ribbing, etc. The line of fine knitting 
at waist may be omitted if preferred, and the two 
inches worked with the ordinary needles. 

Having the 70 stitches (or stitches needed for 
pattern), work back and forth for 4 inches, then, 
with the finer needles, work for 2 inches, then again 
take the large needles and work till you have 15 
inches in length, measuring from the middle of the 
fine part. For shoulder, begin on the right side of 
the work; do 25, putting them when done on to a 
safety-pin, or keeping them in any convenient man- 
ner. Cast off 20 easily, neither loosely nor tightly, 
for the back of the neck work on the remaining 25 
for 1 inch. Now increase a stitch every time you 
end a row at the neck end till you have 28 stitches. 
Then cast on 16 stitches or 20 stitches according 
to size required, and work back and forth on these 
for 5 inches. 

This brings you to armhole. .Now increase every 
time you end a row at armhole end till you have 
increased 6 stitches; then increase till you have 
about 60 or 64 according to the size wished; then 
go on working till you have 9 inches done from 
where the long increase was made for armhole. 
Next time you begin a row at the front, leave 10 



stitches unworked at the underarm side. Work 
back without increase or decrease. After this, ac- 
cording to whether you want a medium or a rather 
long fulness in front, leave 5 or 10 stitches every 
time you get towards the underarm side, till there 
are about 10 stitches left at the front. 

Now take the fine needles and work for 2 inches 
with them, then go back to the large needles and 
work till the front is the same depth as the back 
after the fine knitting is done. Cast off very 
easily. 

Sleeve. — This is a rather full sleeve at top, with 
a deep cuff, pretty and convenient. Use large 
needles and cast on about 24 stitches then every 
row cast on at the end of the needle about 3 or 4 
stitches just to suit any pattern you are doing, as 
said before. When the work is 19 or 20 inches 
wide, or 80 or 90 stitches, stop increasing, and 
work 12 rows without decrease or increase. After 
which decrease one at each side every 7th row till 
the work is about 17 inches wide, or perhaps 16. 
Then go on without increase, or decrease, till the 
work is about 19 inches long, at the longest part, 
or long enough for the sleeve you wish, making 
allowance for the cuff. Cast off. 

Now measure the arm, over the underwear if 
worn, a little above where you wish the cuff to 
come to ; you may do the cuffs in either the fine 
needles or the larger ones ; it is entirely a matter 
of taste. 

Set on the requisite number of stitches, and work 
back and forth in plain knitting, decreasing a 
stitch at each side every 8th or 10th row, till the 
cuffs are small enough. The model cuffs were 10 
inches wide at the top, and about 8 1-2 at the low- 
est, but that is a measure which can be varied. 

Neck. — Use the finer needles, and pick up about 
90 stitches. This will make the neck about 15 inches 
long. If better to pick up more stitches to make 
the work look even, you can pick them up and nar- 
row in the first row. This collar is worked in plain 
knitting to match the cuffs. When the collar is 
right size, work one row. Then decrease at the 
beginning and end of the next row. Work four 



more rows and decrease in the fifth. Go on in this 
manner till the collar is as high as wished. 

Pocket. — Use large needles and cast on 20 
stitches more if you wish a larger pocket, but if 
too large, it "drags." Work on these for 3 inches, 
then narrow at each side of the pocket every third 
row, till the pocket is nearly or quite 4 inches deep. 
Cast off. For top of same if wished, cast on 22 
stitches, work back and forth for an inch ; then 
cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of every row 
till about 10 or 12 stitches are left. Cast off. 

Sew up sides, put sleeves in with the seam a 
little to the front, line the collar if preferred, and, 
if liked, the cuffs also. 

Fastening of Sweater and Pocket. — This may 
be done in various ways. If liked, you can pull or 
poke a hole through the knitting and work it round 
with silk. This is one of the firmest and easiest 
buttonholes. 

Another way, when working the buttonhole side, 
slip 1, knit 2, cast off 2, and finish the row as usual. 
In the return row, you make 2 stitches to replace 
those you cast off, so getting a good buttonhole. 
These buttonholes must be made every so often 
with exactitude, counting the rows between that 
there may be no mistake. About an inch and a 
half, or more, according to the tightness of the 
sweater. It is always better to have a sweater 
loose than even snug. Another way, often fol- 
lowed, is to put the buttons or hooks and eyes on 
to a spare piece which is sewn in place. Cord 
loops, on one side, just underneath a tiny crochet 
edging, and neat ornamental buttons which show 
well, are also satisfactory. 

The front of the sweater can be trimmed by a 
piece knitted or crocheted separate like a plait, and 
edged with crochet, and sewn on all down the front ; 
or a very pretty way is just to finish the edge with 
a tiny crochet scallop, made very snug, as men- 
tioned when speaking of the loops of cord and 
buttons. A piece of material can be fixed under 
each button for strength. 

Notes. — It is always better to cast on a few more 
stitches than a few less, especially in the front of 
the jersey, or sweater, that it may not only appear 
to. but may really fasten easily ; to look well it 
must be without any pulling, anywhere. 

This sweater may be made without the short 
skirt piece by beginning in the middle of the plain 
piece, thus missing out the skirt written, but as it 
is given it may be worn either outside or under the 
dress skirt. 

Further note as to stitches. If the number of 
stitches does not fit any desired pattern, just add 
one, two, or so, or even more. It will not matter, 
for a few extra as any pattern is apt to take up 
the stitches somewhat. Plain 3, and purl 1, is a 



good pattern; in the return row the plain stitches 
are purled, and the purl knitted plain. Another 
pattern is knit 2, purl 2, all the time on any num- 
ber of stitches which will divide by four and leave 
three over. Another, knit 2, purl 1 ; in the return 
row, knit the purl stitches and purl the knitted 
ones. 

Another way ; cast on an odd number of 
stitches; k. 1, p. 1, all the time. It is best to try 
these plain patterns before deciding on the pattern 
of the sweater. 

HOW TO MAKE SWEATERS OF 
ALL KINDS BY PATTERN 

It will be found to be one of the easiest ways to 
make a sweater by pattern. Select your wool, 
needles, etc., No. 10, or 11, or 9 if you wish only 
four stitches to the inch ; just according to your 
style of knitting; perhaps you may wish five stitches 
to an inch. It does not matter ; get needles to 
make the number of stitches wished. In the same 
way if a fine sweater is wished, No. 13 or 14 
needles will be needed, or whatever the size, work 
a small piece of work with the needles and wool 
you wish to use, either in plain and purl, plain 
knitting, or ribbed, just according to the needs of 
the case ; from that worked piece calculate the 
number of your stitches and rows. 

Never make a sweater small sized; make it fairly 
full, especially over the bust ; it should not drag 
anywhere. In choosing a paper pattern, it is best 
to have one full ordinary size, and then if needed 
make it a little fuller, especially across the chest 
and bust. 

You can make the sweater to come below the 
waist, or just to the waist, to have just as much 
fulness as is desired in the width, also in the length ; 
the sleeves may be full, or medium, but in work- 
ing from pattern, it is best to make both sides of 
sleeve alike ; that is, curved from the top to where 
it fits into the lower arm, like the top of the sleeve, 
not curved in, as at the under side of pattern. A 
piece of paper pinned across the top of sleeve and 
both sides shaped alike will meet the case. The 
pattern to be used for sweater need not be curved 
on either front or back, quite so much as sleeve 
pattern, if preferred. 

Usually the back of the sweater is knitted with- 
out shaping at the shoulders ; if a slant is wished 
you can make a slight one, but the soft easy wool, 
worked on the large needles, shapes itself so easily 
that it is not needful, as a rule, to widen or narrow 
on the shoulders. 

In doing the neck the stitches can be taken up 
to make the neckband, and if too many narrow in 
the first row, or till the right size is gained. For 



a man's sweater, the collar should always be 
ribbed so as to fit, but the work need not be such a 
close fit as in a woman's sweater. By "close" I 
mean a made fit , the man's should fit as well but 
in a somewhat looser fashion, the closeness made 
by the ribbing. For a man's sweater the coilar is 
often deep enough to turn over well, to protect the 
neck and also be a finish. 

It is not needful, as a rule, except in a tight- 
fitting sweater, to decrease much, if any, under the 
arm ; never in a man's and practically never in a 
woman's ordinary sweater. 

If you decide on a tight-fitting sweater, it is need- 
ful, as said before, to use quite fine needles, about 
No. 13, and a still finer size for yoke, if any, also 
for the collars and cuffs. 

Wool and needles must always be chosen to- 
gether. For men's and boys' the golf yarn will be 
admirable ; and for a rough-wear sweater for a 
woman perhaps ; also some of the Germantowns 
can be considered, always remembering that Ger- 
mantowns require somewhat finer needles than does 
the golf yarn; possibly No. n. 

For a man's smoking-jacket it may be crocheted, 
or knitted. Russian crochet, in golf yarn, is good, 
or knitted in the same wool to a plain, simple pat- 
tern, with straight sleeves with gusset, straight 
sides to the jacket, a V-shaped neck and the arm- 
holes shaped a little in front, if desired. The 
sleeves being pretty straight, but roomy and having 
a neat gusset under the arm. 

In all matters, however, be guided by the main 
features of the pattern. 

A boy's sweater is made in the simplest straight- 
up-and-down fashion, fully wide. It is better 
ribbed ; say three plain and one purl to show on 
the right side, or it may be two plain and two purl, 
on and on; it is usually without an opening in the 
front, and fully long, as he can always roll it up 
if it is in the way ; the neck full size and collar 
well ribbed to fit ; with a good gusset at armhole ; 
the sleeves roomy, straight shaped with good gus- 
set; and easy to get into. They may be made 
fairly long, so that he can pull them over his hands 
if cold, or shorter and wool kept by you so that 
new cuffs can be added. A little thought should 
be given in making a boy's sweater as to whether 
he is a quiet boy, fond of reading, etc., or whether 
he is a boy who wants to go fishing, etc., and needs 
a fully warm, substantial article, rather than one 
in which he looks especially nice. He will look 
nicest in what is most comfortable. These plain 
sweaters usually have about three or four inches 
of close one plain, one purl, all along the bottom 
of each front and back piece, also the wristband of 
sleeves. The collar also may be of the same order. 
The wrists and collar are often done with rather 



finer needles than the main part of the work. The 
bottom portion is optional as to change of needles. 
If tightly knitted in ribbing it will probably be fine 
enough on the regular needles. 

A boy's sweater, like others, can also be cro- 
cheted, either in the Russian crochet, or plain 
double, or treble stitch, working through the two 
top loops of each stitch; not making the work too 
close. 

In either knitting or crochet, the back must be 
made the full length up to the back of the neck, 
then a proper proportion of the back cast off, if in 
knitting, or left unworked if crochet, for the back 
of the neck, a short piece worked at each side for 
shoulders, then the shoulders united again by the 
same number of stitches as were in the back, the 
front then worked on again till the front with the 
neck portion is as long as the back up to where 
the shoulders began. 

Note. — It is better to make the hole for neck 
fully large. It can easily have a few more rows 
of crochet or knitting, and if necessary have a few 
stitches narrowed or taken up, much better than it 
can be made larger, if too tight in the first instance 
to go over the head. 

Girl's sweaters are made as seems best adapted 
to age and habits. 

A baby's sweater can be v rnade p ' in the plainest 
way, of the softest wool ; usually the softest four- 
fold Germantown is used ; or even four- fold Ber- 
lin; but four- fold Germantown is usually selected, 
and is a trifle more substantial and practically as 
soft as Berlin. 

It may have an opening down the front or not 
as preferred. The opening may be fastened with 
loops or buttonholes, formed either by casting off 
a stitch one row and casting it on the next, or by 
simply pulling the work a little to one side at the 
proper place and sewing or working it round some- 
what. Buttons to fit buttonholes. These should 
neither be large nor small. If buttons are selected 
they should be well sewn on, and the place under 
them might be strengthened by tiny squares of soft 
material sewn on under each button ; not sewn on 
in a strip. 

The really old-fashioned straight-up-and-down 
shirt pattern is good, as far as it goes. It must not 
fit too close in the neck or body, or be so high 
that it clings too much. It may be ribbed two 
plain, two purl, all along on an even number of 
stitches, or three plain, and one purl on right side, 
and the plain stitches purled and the purl stitches 
knitted plain on the wrong side. Or it may be two 
plain, two purl on a number of stitches which will 
divide by four and leave three over. This makes 
a pretty pattern. 

The sleeves may be shaped or plain at the top, 



they are better a trifle shaped; the armholes 
roomy, as also the sleeves, which must not be too 
long, or they are in the way. A coat sleeve may 
have to be made a trifle larger, but is a good guide. 

The needles may be No. 10 or n, but should not 
be larger, usually. What seems to make the work 
elastic and comfortable must be the guide to choice. 
Judgment must dictate whether finer pins than 
No. ii are used. 

In all these things it is well to have the proper 
pattern beside you. It costs very little and more 
than saves itself by the general improvement of 
your work, and, as said above, with knitting or 
crochet it is only necessary to stay with the main 
features of shaping. The class of work, particu- 
larly knitting, to a large extent shapes itself. 

STOCKING TOP 

Explanation of Terms. — G, gray; Cr, crimson; k, knit plain; 
si, slip; p, purl; k 2 tog, knit 2 together; d s o, draw the 
slip stitch over; o, wool round needle to make a stitch. 

With G cast on 70 stitches, knit 8 rounds in a rib 
of k 3, p 2. 




Stocking Top 

1st pattern round. — * With G, o, si 1, k 1, d s o, 
k 3; with Cr, o, s 1, k 1, d s o, k 3. Repeat from * 
6 times. 

2d round. — * Gray, k 5, Cr, k 5. Repeat from *. 

jrf round. — * With G, k 1, o, si 1, k 1, d s o, k 2; 
with Cr, k 1, o, s 1, k 1, d s o, k 2. Repeat from *. 

4th round. — Same as 2d round. 

$th round. — * With G, k 2, o, si 1, k 1, d s o, k I ; 
with Cr, k 2, o, si 1, k 1, d s o, k 1. Repeat from *. 

6th round. — Repeat 2d round. 

yth round. — * With G, k 3, o, si 1, k 1, d s o; 
with Cr, k 3, o, si 1, k 1, d s o. Repeat from *. 

8th round. — Repeat the second round. 



gth round. — * With Cr, k 3, k 2 tog, o; with G, 
k 3, k 2 tog, o. Repeat from *. 

\oth round. — Repeat 2d round. 

nth round. — * With Cr, k 2, k 2 tog, o, k 1 ; with 
G, k 2, k 2 tog, o, k 1. Repeat from *. 

12th round. — Repeat 2d round. 

13th round. — * With Cr, k 1, k 2 tog, o, k 2; with 
G, k 1, k 2 tog, o, k 2. Repeat from *. 

14th round. — Repeat 2d round. 

15th round. — * With Cr, k 2 tog, o, k 3; with G, 
k 2 tog, o, k 3. Repeat from *. 

16th round. — Repeat 2d round. 

Repeat from first round until 40 rounds are 
knitted; then break off the crimson wool. 

41st round. — Knit with gray wool. 

42d round. — * Over twice, k 2 tog. Repeat from *. 

43d round.—* Knit 1 on the over-stitch. Let the 

2d over drop to make a large hole, k 1. Repeat from 
* 

Knit 13 rounds in a rib of k 3, p 2, and cast off. 
The elastic is run through the holes. 

STOCKING TOP 

(G) and brown (B) yarn. Four 



Materials. — Dark green 
needles, No. 13. 

Cast on 72 stitches for a medium size, 90 for a 
large size. Each repeat of the pattern is 18 stitches. 

1st and 2d rounds. — Green, k 1, p 1. 

2,d and 4th rounds. — Green, p 1, k 1. Repeat these 
four rounds for about half an inch. Knit 2 plain 
rounds in b. One round g. 

4th round of border. — Knit 1 G, 1 b, all round. 




Stocking Top 

5th, 6th, yth, and 8th rounds. — Knit 1 b, i g, all 
round. 

gth round. — As 4th. Knit 1 round plain g and 2 b. 
This finishes the border. 

For the centre pattern. — Four rounds g. 

5th round. — Two b, 2 g, 5 b, 2 g, 5 b, 2 g, repeat. 



6th round. — The same as 5th. 

~th and 8th rounds. — One g, * 2 b, 3 g, 2 b, 2 G, 2 
b, 3 G, 2 b, 2 g; repeat from *, end with 1 G. 

gth and 10th rounds. — Two g, 2 b, i g, 2 b, 2 c, 2 b, 
2 g, 1 b, 2 G, 2 b; repeat. 

11th and 12th rounds. — One b, * 2 g, 3 b, 2 g, 2 b, 
2 c, 3 b, 2 g, 2 b ; repeat from *, end with 1 b. 

13^/1 and 14th rounds. — Two b, 2 G, 1 B, 2 g, 2 b, 2 
g,2b, ig,2b,2g; repeat. 

15^/i and 16th rounds. — Same as 7th and 8th. 

ijth and 18th rounds. — Two G, 5 b, 2 G, 2 b, 2 G, 
5 b; repeat. 

19^/1, 20th, 21st and 22d rounds. — Green. Repeat 
the 12 border rounds, and knit for about half an 
inch in G. Purl 1 round for the turnover and work 
the stocking:. 



even, work 1 d c under the 2 ch at the edge of 
each, 2 ch, and repeat to end. 

For the Border. — 1st, 2d, and 3d rows. Like 1st 
row worked up the edge of strip. 

4th row. — * Four d c under 2 ch of last row, 6 ch, 
1 d c into 1st of 6 ch, repeat from * to end. 

Work 12 ch at one of the corners to hang the 
cloth up by. This border is shown worked only 
at the ends in the illustration, but should be worked 
entirely around the cloth. 

If the edge up the sides of the strips is worked 
in scarlet tape the effect is much prettier than all 
white. Then in joining the strips use white tape, 
and make the 1st and 3d rows in border of scarlet 
tape, the 2d and 4th in white. For a two strip cloth 
about 24 yards of scarlet tape will be required. 



BATH CLOTH 

Materials required for this handy and serviceable 
article will be two wooden knitting needles, and 
about 55 yards of linen tape. The quantity of tape, 
however, must be decided by the size of cloth pre- 
ferred. 

To begin, cast on 12 stitches. 

*ist row. — Knit plain. 

2d row. — Purl. 

2,d row<. — Like 1st. 

4th row. — Like 2d. 

$th row. — Purl. 

6th row. — Knit. 

yth rozn'.— Purl. 

*8th row. — Knit, and repeat from * to * until the 
strip is 11 inches long. Make two of these strips, or 




Bath Cloth 

three if a larger size is preferred. Up the sides of 
each strip work in crochet as follows : 

1st row. — One d c into a st at the edge, 2 ch, pass 
over 2 sts. Repeat to end of strip. 

2d row. — One d c under the 2 ch of last row, 2 ch. 
Repeat to end. 

Join the strips by holding 2 tog, with the edges 



OPENWORK TOPS FOR MEN'S 
STOCKINGS 

There are many openwork patterns that will 
answer- this purpose. This open part, to look well, 
should have a smaller border as a framework, if 
one may use the term, to the larger insertion. The 
following designs will be simple and effective. 

First Pattern. — Rib 6 rounds, knitting and purl- 
ing two stitches alternately, 2 rounds purled, 1 round 
knit, 2 rounds purled. 

12th round. — * Wool forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw 
the slipped stitch over the knitted one, repeat 
from *. 

13th round. — Knit plain. Repeat these two rounds 
the depth you wish the open part, then 2 rounds 
purled, 1 round knit, 2 rounds purled, and commence 
the leg of the stocking. 

Second Pattern. — This is more open than the 
above. Rib 6 or 8 rounds, purl 4 rounds. 

5th round. — Knit. 

6th round. — * Wool forward, knit 2 together, 
repeat from *. 

yth round. — Knit, purl 4 rounds. 

12th round commences the open border. Knit 
2. * Wool forward and round the needle, knit 3, 
draw the first of these 3 stitches over the two others, 
repeat from *. Knit 2 at the end. 

13th round. — Knit plain. 

14th round. — Knit 4 and repeat 12th round. Knit 
3 at the end. 

15^/1 round. — Plain. 

16th round. — Knit 3, then repeat the 12th round. 
At the end of the round knit 2 instead of 3, and draw 
the first over, then knit 2. 

17th round. — Plain. Repeat from the 12th round 
the depth wished, and knit again 4 purl rounds, I 
round plain. The following round the same as the 
6th round, a plain round, 4 purl rounds, and com- 
mence the leg. 

Third Pattern. — Six or 8 rounds of rib. Purl 
3 rounds. 



4th round. — Knit 2, * make 1, knit 2 together, knit 
I, repeat from *. 

5th round. — Knit plain. Repeat these 2 rounds four 
times, then 3 purl rows. 

Wide Open Border. — 1st round. — Knit plain. 

2d round. — Make 1, knit 2 together twice, repeat 
from *. 

2)d round. — * Make I, knit 3, repeat from *. 

4th round. — Knit 1, * knit 2 together twice, make 1, 
repeat from *. 

$th round. — Knit 1, * make 1, knit 2 together twice, 
repeat from *, in the last two knit together the first 
stitch on the next needle is used. 

6th round. — * Knit 2, make 1, knit I, repeat from *. 
Repeat the second and following rounds twice, then 
3 purl rounds, if it does not make border too wide, 
repeat again the first narrow border, and then rib 
the leg. 

GOLF HOSE 

Materials. — About 6 ounces each of a light and dark shade 
of Golf yarn, and No. 1.3 needles. It is also well to have 
a set of No. 14 needles. 

This stocking is a medium size; io}4 inches foot, 
length of leg, 15 inches, turnover, 4 inches; it is well, 
however, to keep track of how the work is going on 
for size, as no two people work alike. 
, Use the dark wool and cast on 24 stitches on the 
first needle, 32 on the second, and 24 on the third 
needle. ,.. r 

Work three rounds of 2 plain, 2 purl, then take 
the light wool, knit a round and purl a round, then 
take the dark wool and knit a round and purl 3 
rounds; now take the light wool and knit 2 rounds. 

Now , begin the pattern. It is all in plain 
knitting, and eight stitches to each pattern. Re- 
member to always begin the round between the two 
needles which have 24 stitches on them. You may 
find it best to mark that place, that you may not 
forget. 

1st round pattern. — One dark, 6 light, * 2 dark, 
6 light, and repeat from * till there is one stitch 
left ; knit that dark. 

2d round. — Two dark, 4 light, * 4 dark, 4 light, 
and repeat from * ; end with 2 dark. 

3d round. — One light, 2 dark, then 2 light, 2 dark, 
all along, till you have one stitch left ; work that 
one light. 

4th round.— Two light, 4 dark, then 4 light, 4 
dark, to within 2 of the end ; knit those 2 light. 

$th round. — Three light, 2 dark, * 6 light, 2 dark, 
and repeat from *. End with 3 light. 

6th round. — Two light, 4 dark, * 4 light, 4 dark, 
and repeat from * ; end with 2 light. 

fth round. — One light, 2 dark, then * 2 light, 2 
dark, and repeat from * ending up with 1 light. 

8th round. — Two dark, 4 light, * 4 dark, 4 light, 
and repeat from *, ending up with 2 dark. 

gth round. — One dark, 6 light, * 2 dark, 6 light, and 
repeat from *; end with 1 dark. 



Repeat from the 2d round, which will give 17 
rounds of diamond pattern, then knit two rounds 
in light wool ; take the dark wool and knit a round 
and purl 3 rounds, take the light wool and knit a 
round and purl a round. Cut off the light wool 
for the present. Take the dark wool and knit 1 
round, and purl 6 rounds ; this completes the turn- 
over part. 

Now turn the work inside out, so that the part 
which has hitherto been the wrong side, or inside, 
may be the outside. Use dark wool and rib 2 plain, 
2 purl, for 34 rounds. Take the light wool and 




Golf Hose 

knit a plain round in which you increase as 
follows : Begin at the beginning of the round 
which should be still marked, and knit 1, * make 
1, knit 3, and repeat from * six times more, 
seven times in all ; increase once more, knit the last 
2 stitches. There should be 32 stitches. In making 
the stitch, it is better to knit the thread of wool 
below, so as not to make a hole. Knit the 
middle needle with 32 on it, and increase to 32 
in the same way on the 3d needle. You will then 
have 96 stitches. Knit one plain round still using 
the light wool. Run a thread down to mark the cen- 
tre between the two needles on which the extra 
stitches are put on that they may continue to be the 
back. 

You now begin the leg pattern : Work the 9 
rounds as detailed above, then go back to the 2d 
round and work from the 2d round to the 9th, 
twice, then work from the 2d round to the 8th, in- 
clusive. 



You now begin to decrease for the leg: Keep 
the pattern on each side of the two diamonds you 
decrease in perfectly even and straight, and also 
keep the patterns of the two diamonds your de- 
creases come in as even as possible. This being 
understood, * decrease by knitting the 2d and 3d 
stitch of the next round together, also the last but 
one and the last but two together. This leaves 
two stitches between the decreasings, one on 
each of the needles. Knit 2 rounds in pattern 
without decrease and repeat from *, keeping the 
pattern as well as possible and going on till you 
have decreased 12 times and have 72 stitches left. 
This brings the patterns even again and you 
work on them till you can count eleven diamonds 
after the plain ribbing at the top of the stocking. 
A little judgment may be used; for instance, if the 
leg is to be verj- long another pattern may be done. 

Keep the centre marking wool in place, and put 
18 stitches on each side of it for heel, keep- 
ing 36 unworked for the front. Work for about 
2 inches in pattern for heel, then break off the dark 
wool, work another half inch in light wool ; 
then do the heel thus, having the 36 sts for heel 
ready with the right side of the work toward you : 
1st row. — Slip 1, k 19, n, k 1, turn. 
2d row. — Slip 1 for purling, p 5, p 2 tog, p I. 
3d roiv. — Slip 1, k till you come to the last stitch 
of the centre stitches. You will know it because 
there seems to be a sort of tiny gap after the last 
stitch. Knit that last stitch and one from the side 
together, then k 1. 

4th row. — Slip 1 as for purling, purl till the last 
stitch of the centre set is left, purl that stitch and 
one stitch from the side together, purl 1. Repeat 
the 3d and 4th rows till all heel stitches are worked 
up; there will be 20 stitches at the finish and there 
will not be any plain stitches left at the end tc work 
up, as each side finishes with a narrowing. 

You now, if it is not already done, put all the 
front stitches on one needle. Leave them for the 
present as the front and back of the foot are worked 
separately till you come to the toe. 

Take up about 17 stitches at one side of the heel, 
and 17 on the other, put 10 from the finish of the 
heel to each needle, making 27 on each side. Now 
work one or two rows, just according to whether 
you have a purl row to do, but you do one plain row 
to set the stitches before narrowing. 

Next plain row. — Slip 1, n, k the rest of the needle, 
and the second needle till three sts are left, n, k 1. 
Purl back. Repeat these two rows, unless for a 
man with a rather low instep, when you may nar- 
row in the purl row as well, till your stitches are 
reduced to 36, then knit plain and purl till 
you have altogether about 50 rows since leaving the 
heel, but including the narrowing rows in the 
measurement; some knitters make a square of plain 
knitting after the narrowings before commencing 



the toe. Some a trifle more. It largely depends 
on the length of foot, and in measuring remember 
that about two inches and a half will be added 
in making the toe. To this two inches and a half 
add half an inch for the joining of the front and 
back, so stop knitting the under part of the foot 
when you find it is within three inches of as long 
as the foot will finally be. Now go back to the 
front portion of the foot and work on the 36 
stitches in pattern till the front is as long, counting 
rows, as the back is, when you break off the dark 
yarn, keep on with the light and work in rounds 
for the half inch before beginning the toe nar- 
rowings. 

Have the stitches exactly even, 18 on each of the 
underneath needles, and 36 on the front needle. 

1st round narrowing. — * Begin at the middle of 
the round in the middle of the under part, knit to 
within 3 of the end of needle, n, k 1 ; for the front 
part, k 1, n, k till three are left on the front needle, 
n, k 1, now k 1 of the remaining back needle, n, and 
k to the middle of the needle. Knit one round plain, 
then repeat from * till you have 10 or 12 sts at the 
front and the same number on the two back needles. 

Cast off all around, then sew the cast off edges 
together, or k to the end of the underneath side, 
lay the needles together, k a stitch from the front 
and the back at the same time, k 2 more in the 
same way, bring the 1st stitch over the 2d * k 
another stitch from each side together as one stitch, 
bring the previous stitch over it, and repeat from 
* till all are cast off. 

If the foot seems likely to be a little wide, it might 
be well to work it with No. 14 needles. So much de- 
pends, as previously said, on the class of work, 
whether loose or tight. 

SILK SUSPENDERS 

Materials. — Two spools of No. 300 knitting silk, and 2 yards of 
1 % -inch ribbon. 

It is always best to procure the nickel trimmings 
first, measure the length of straps, and ascertain 
how long a piece of the knitted strip will be re- 
quired, then allow two inches on each strip for 
pulling up, as on other suspenders. This pattern 
is worked in checks and is very pretty and com- 
pact. 

Cast on to small knitting-needles (such as are 
used for knitting silk mittens) 24 stitches. 

1st round. — Knit plain. 

2d round. — * Knit 4, p 4, repeat from * to end 
of round, 

2,d, 4th, and $th rounds. — Same as the 2d round 
(slip first stitch of every round except at beginning 
of a round). 

6th round. — Knit plain. 

yth round. — * Purl 4, k 4, repeat from * to end 
of round. 



9 



8th, gth and loth rounds. — Same as 7th round. 

nth round. — Knit plain. Repeat from beginning 
of 2d round till strip is the required length. 

This makes a suspender one and three-fourths 
inches wide; if a narrower one is required, say one 
and one-half inches wide, cast on 20 stitches in- 
stead of 24 stitches, and k 5 instead of 4 as directed 
above ; also p 5 instead of 4 stitches. 

In fastening work to ribbon, baste in place and 
buttonhole the ribbon and knit band together. 
Where the suspenders fasten to the trimmings in 
the back they may be gathered down to the re- 
quired width by running a bit of the silk through 
. the lower edges of the two pieces and drawing up. 

If it is desired to point the pieces in the back 
(as is usual), knit to within two and one-half 
inches of the required length, and then narrow 1 
stitch in every other round till there are but 4 
stitches left; always remember to narrow on the 
same side every time. These two pointed ends 
may be sewed together in over-and-over stitch 
after the ribbon lining is sewed on. 

AUTO CAP 

A set of five No. 14 steel knitting needles and about 
two skeins each of gray and blue yarn (or any pretty 
contrasting colors). There should be six stitches to 
the inch. 

Use gray and cast on 6 stitches. Arrange them 
evenly on three needles. 

1st round. — Increase a stitch by knitting and purl- 
ing in the first stitch, or by knitting the first stitch 
and then knitting the thread which lies between the 
first and second stitch on the needle. Knit the rest 
of the needle. Work each of the three needles the 
same way. Repeat this round till you have 6 stitches 
on each needle and have done four rounds. 

$th round. — Increase in every third stitch. 

Repeat the 5th round eleven times more. 

lyth round. — Increase in every fourth stitch. 

18th round. — No increasing. Repeat these two 
rounds till you have 48 stitches on each of the three 
needles. 

Now take the 4th needle and put 36 stitches on 
each of 4 needles. Knit 7 rounds with the gray or 
body wool, ribbing the work by knitting 8 and purl- 
ing 4. 

Now take the lighter shade of yarn : Knit 6 rounds, 
continuing the ribbing. Put 36 stitches on a 
heavy wool and tie the ends. The stitches 
will be more convenient so, than on a knitting 
needle. Now work 4 rows, continuing the rib (so 
that you will have to k or p as needed) still using 
the light wool. Next time you come to the right- 
hand end of the work and have the right side of 
the work towards you ; begin with the darker 
shade of wool *. Work 10 rows in dark, 
then 10 rows of light, ribbing all the time, and 




Auto Cap 

repeat from * alternating the stripes until 7 are 
done, or until the side will reach as low on the face 
as wished. To the base of the chin is a convenient 
length. Then cast on 36 stitches to equal those at 
the top and make into a round again ; then continue 
the striping and the ribbing, until about 100 or 120 
rounds, or 12 or 14 inches are done. It is best to 
finish with a deep line of the darker wool. Cast 
off very easily. 

Pick up the stitches around the front 36 at top, 
and 36 at the lower edge, and 36 or a proportionate 
number at each side. In the model there were 144 
stitches in the round. Rib 3, purl 3, for about 4 
rounds in light wool, then begin with the dark and 
work about 6 rounds in the dark shade. Cast off 
snugly but not too tightly. 

Note. — If at any time you find you are getting 
short of either one of the shades of wool, it does 
not matter. Simply do rather wider stripes of the 
wool of which you have most. A model of this 
class looked fully as pretty as when the stripes were 
all equal in width. The main thing is a neat com- 
bination and a long comfortable shape, which will 
protect the neck as well as the head. 

Note No. 2. — Some workers like to knit the com- 
forter part with a size or two coarser needles. 
This makes it a trifle more fluffy. The needles 
should not be larger than 13 or 12. 



Materials.-- 
needles. 



MAN'S GAUNTLETS 

-Twelve balls of rabbit wool and No. 14 steel 



Cast 16 stitches easily on each of 3 needles. 
There must be good stretching room between the 



10 



stitches. Work with the fourth needle. Mark the 
beginning of the round with a thread, and k 2, p 2, 
for two and one-half inches. 

You now begin the thumb. Have a string ready. 
Knit the 1st st, bring the end of string to the front of 
the work, k the thread between the stitch just knit- 
ted and the next, put the string back, to mark the new 
knitted stitch; k the next; these 2 sts, which are one 
on each side of the raised stitch, are called guardian 
stitches, and are knitted on each side the raisings for 
thumb. 

2d and 3d rounds. — Knit and purl as usual except 
that you remember the extra for thumb. 

4th round. — Knit the guardian stitch, bring the 
string to the right side of work, raise a stitch, put 

the string back, 
knit the middle 
stitch, raise one, 
knit the other 
guardian stitch, 
and finish the rest 
of the round as 
usual. 

Repeat the 2d, 
3d, and 4th rounds, 
keeping the guar- 
.dian stitches al- 
w a y s knitted, 3 
knitted stitches in 
the centre of the 
thumb and others 
as well disposed 
as convenient till 
you have 19 
stitches raised be- 
sides the two 
guardian stitches 
which were of the 
original work. 
This will take 
nearly or quite 4 
Man's Gauntlet inches, and if you 

find it is going to 
take less with your style of work, you can make an 
extra round between the raisings, or raise an extra 
stitch or two, if your work seems tight, but rather 
than get it too tight it is better to use a size coarser 
needles. When you have the 19 stitches raised slip 
them on to a large safety pin. Slip the first guar- 
dian stitch on to the other knitting needle, or do it 
in any convenient way, but cast on 6 stitches in 
place of the thumb stitches. Knit the rest of the 
round as usual. 

2d round of gusset stitches. — Put the guardian 
stitch back to its proper needle and knit it ; narrow, 
purl 2, narrow ; knit the other guardian stitch and 
finish the round as usual. 

3c? round. — Knit or purl as called for. 

4th round. — Knit the guardian stitch, narrow, 




narrow, knit the other guardian stitch, finish the 
round as usual. 

<$th round. — Like 3d. 

6th round. — Knit the guardian stitch, narrow, knit 
the other guardian stitch, finish the rest of the round 
as usual. 

yth round. — Like 3d. 

8th round. — Knit the first guardian stitch, narrow, 
(this narrowing takes in the 2d guardian stitch) 
and now the stitches will be 48 in number as at 
the beginning. Work round and round for about 
2 inches, and then cast off easily, to fit the hand, 
with a glove on. 

Thumb. — Pick up the 19 stitches, and raise 6 on 
the gusset, 25 in all. Knit and purl one round to set 
the stitches. You will notice there are 3 plain 
stitches in the centre of the 19. Always keep those 
three plain as a landmark. 

2d round. — Knit and purl as usual, but decreasing 
one in the gusset part. 

3d round. — Knit and purl as called for. 

Repeat the 2d and 3d rounds till there are 3 
stitches left of the gusset part. 

This will give 22 stitches in all, and you will find 
that there are the 3 plain stitches at the deep part of 
the thumb already spoken of, and 3 stitches from the 
gusset, which must be worked as is most convenient. 
In the model they were purled in the thumb rounds, 
and the stitches between the front and back 3 were 
knitted and purled in the ordinary way. 

Proceed with the work now, round and round 
till the thumb is as long as wished; in the model it 
was about an inch and a half long after the gusset 
was finished. It may be two inches if there is wool 
enough, and there should be plenty on twelve balls. 
Cast off easily so that it is comfortable for the 
thumb with a glove on. Make the other gauntlet in 
the same manner. 

Remove the thread which guided the narrowings, 
run in any ends, and this handsome pair of gauntlets 
is completed. 

Save the remainder of the twelfth ball for timely 
darnings. Being ribbed these gauntlets fit any ordi- 
nary hand. 

MAN'S EVENING SCARF 

This scarf will protect the collar and shirt bosom 
when going out in evening dress, besides being 
very warm and comfortable. Make up with a 
quilted white satin lining. Use a soft yarn and two 
bone needles. 

Cast on 45 stitches. Knit forwards plain and 
purl back, always slipping the first stitch. 

Knit about 12 inches, having 51 slip stitches at 
the side edges. 

Then decrease for the neck, beginning on a plain 
row. 

Slip 1 stitch, knit I, take 2 together, knit to end 
of the row. 



11 




Man's Evening Scarf 

Continue taking 2 together at the third stitch 
every other row until you have 20 stitches left. 

Then knit 2 inches without increasing or decreas- 
ing. 

Then begin increasing on a plain row. 

Slip 1 stitch, knit 1, make a stitch, knit plain to 
end of the row. 

Continue making 1 stitch at the third stitch every 
other row till you have 45 stitches on the needles. 

Then knit for about 12 inches without increasing 
or decreasing, having again 51 slip stitches, at the 
side edges, and cast off. 

MAN'S SLIPPERS 

Materials. — A pair of soles the right size, 2 ounces of dark 
Germantown wool and 1 ounce of lighter shade, No. 13 or 
14 needles, according to your style of knitting. For the 
main part 2 ounces of crimson and 1 ounce fawn for the spots; 
or fawn for the main part and blue for the spots. If a ruffle 
is desired, and it is warm and looks very pretty, 2 ounces of 
the trimming shade could be purchased. 

With the dark wool cast on 20 stitches. 

1st row. — Knit plain. 

2d row. — Slip 1 for purling, p the thread between 
the 1st and 2d stitch so as to raise one, p 19. 

2,d rozv. — Slip 1, raise and knit the loop between 
the 1st and 2d stitch ; k the rest of the row : 22 sts. 

4th rozv. — Take the light wool, but do not break off 
the dark; k the 1st st, raise a st, by which we mean 
raise and k a st, k 1, * slip 2 of the dark shade on to 
the right-hand needle without knitting them, k 2 in 
light wool and repeat from * ; 23 st altogether. 

$th rozv. — Slip 1 as for purling, raise and p a st, 
p the next, * slip the two slipped sts, p 2, and repeat 



from *; there will be an extra st at the end to 
purl ; 24 sts. 

6th row. — Slip 1, raise and k 1, k 2, * slip the two 
slipped sts, k 2, and repeat from *; k the extra st at 
the end, 25 in all. 

yth rozv. — Slip 1 as for purling, raise and p 1, p 2, 
* slip 2, p 2, and repeat from * ; p the extra 2 sts at 
the end; 26 sts. 

8th row. — Change the wool, k 1, raise and knit a 
st, k all the rest, slipped stitches as well as the others; 

27 sts. 

gth row. — Slip 1, raise and k a st, k the rest, 

28 sts. 

10th row. — Slip 1 as for purling, raise and p 1, p 
the rest; 29 sts. 

nth rozv. — Slip 1, raise and k 1, k the rest; 30 
sts. 

Now go back to the 4th row and work on in the 
same fashion, but raising a stitch every row, till you 
have 54 sts, or till the work is wide enough, making- 
allowance for stretching a trifle in wearing unless 
lined ; then go on working as usual but without 
increase till the toe is 
deep enough. We 
think it is better rather 
deeper than the illus- 
trated slipper, as the 
more firmly it sits on 
the foot the less liable 
it is to slip off at the 
heel, but it is entirely 
a matter of taste. 
When the toe is deep 
enough, cast off all but 
20 or 22 sts, and work 
on them in pattern till 
the slipper, when laid 
flat on the sole, reaches 
from toe to heel. 
Mark that point, and 
work as much as 
needed for the other 
side. Cast off and join 
to the front. 

For Instep. — P i c k 
up the stitches and k 
1 plain round; then k 
a round of k 2, over, 
narrow. Then k 4 or 
6 plain rounds, cast 
off and bind as in *the 
model slipper, or, as 
many prefer, k 2, p 2 
round and round for 
about 6 rounds, and cast off. Now if a ruffle is 
desired, cast on about 6 sts, k a row plain. 

2d rozv. — Put the needle in the stitch, wind the 
wool round the finger and needle twice, and around 




Man's Slipper 



12 



the needle again, then knit the stitch. Repeat from 
the first of the row in each stitch. Knit back plain. 

Sew to the soles easily round toe and over ball 
of foot, snugly at heel, and very snugly at sides. If 
wished run an elastic through the holes and fasten 
to fit the foot. 

Note. — In case a lining is preferred such as is 
in the model, half a yard of quilted silk to match 
the light wool, and about a yard and a half of rib- 
bon to bind the edge will be needed. Cut the lin- 
ing to a very full size, as the outside will stretch 
while the lining will not to any extent. Line the 
slipper before it is sewn to the sole. Usually the 
slippers are worn as knitted, and it is found much 
more convenient to sew them to the sole right side 
out. The worked part is not then stretched and if 
neatly done it is quite satisfactory. 

MAN'S WRISTERS 

Materials. — One skein of Germantown, any desired color, and 
a pair of No. 10 steel needles. 

The work is done in a thick raised rib stitch, and 
makes a very warm wrister. 

Cast on 48 stitches 
and knit one row plain. 
For the next row, * 
thread forward as 
though to purl, slip a 
st as for purling, k the 
next st, and repeat 
from * to end of the 
row. 

For the next row, * 
thread forward a 11 d 
slip 1 as for purling, k 
together the made st 
and the knit st, and re- 
peat from the *. 

Repeat this last row 
until the wrister is the 
required width and 
bind off the stitches 
loosely, knitting the 2 
together as in the pattern. 

Sew up the wrister on the wrong side. Join the 
yarn at the edge and ch 3 and fasten by s c in each 
st of the edge, then another row of ch 3, fastened 
into each of the first ch 3. Finish the other edge 
in the same manner. 

MAN'S COMFORTER 

This wrap can be pulled quite up to the ears. 
When finished it looks like a very large stocking 
top with a knitted flap. It is put on over the head 
and the flap tucks into the waistcoat. To make 
this comforter, cast on 84 stitches in Germantown 
on 4 needles. Rib 2 and 2 till 6 inches are knitted, 
then cast off 44 - stitches for the back ; knit the 
other 40 stitches for front in this stitch, 1 purl, 1 




Man's Wrister 



knit, reversing the order as you return, so that 
each knitted stitch has a purled one under it, and 
the purled one a knitted stitch. This piece should 
be about 10 inches long. 

A comforter like this has the great advantage of 
never slipping off the neck, and will be found very 
useful in cold and stormy weather. 

LADY'S SLIPPERS 

Materials. — Three ounces each of soft gray and pink eight-fold 
Germantown, a pair of No. 13 steel needles, and a pair of 
No. 5 soles. 

Beginning at the toe, with gray wool cast on 12 
stitches. 

1st row. — Knit. 

2d row. — Knit till you come to the last stitch, k 
twice in the last stitch. Usually this is done by 
knitting first into the back and then into the front 
of the loop. 

3c? and 4th rows. — Like the 2d; 15 stitches in all, 
in this row. 

$th row. — Knit 3, put the needle into the next 
stitch as if to work, drop the gray wool, take pink, 
hold the end down with the first finger of left 
hand, * wind the pink wool round the needle and 
first finger of the left hand twice, bring wool 
round needle only the third time, k the stitch ; drop 
pink at back of work, k the next stitch with gray, 
drop the gray, put needle into next stitch, and re- 
peat from * to within two or three of the end of 
the row ; finish the row with the few stitches in 
gray, and cut off the loop wool about an inch from 
the knitting. Pull the looped stitches even, but 
not too tight, so that they show well. 

6th row. — Knit plain with gray, pulling the 
stitches even where needed. Repeat from the 3d 
row till the work measures an even half of the sole 
in length, or thereabouts. Count the stitches ; 
there may be about 33 ; but the work must not get 
above twice the width of the sole ; if it gets wide 
enough before being deep enough, stop widening 
and work till deep enough. When long and wide 
enough cast off easily to the middle, and two or 
three stitches beyond, just to make a comfortable 
instep. Then work in the same way on the remain- 
ing stitches for round the sole without widening, till 
the work is long enough to reach in all when meas- 
ured straight from the toe of the sole, down to the 
heel, and back again as far as the side of the foot 
part already made. In measuring, the work must 
not be pulled at all ; measure easily, and in a 
straight line, without its being loose, or full. Make 
the spots come in as well as possible, in the final 
few rows ; cast off easily, and sew up smoothly. 

Now crochet one round of holes to carry elastic. 

If you cannot crochet, knit a ruching of looped 
knitting by casting on about 5 stitches, knit one 
plain row. ** Then, for the looped knitting, put 



13 



needle in first stitch, * wind the wool twice round 
the needle and two fingers, and a third tune round 
the needle; then finish knitting the stitch. Put 
needle into next stitch, and repeat from * to the 
end of the row. Knit back, pulling the looped 
stitches even, and repeat from ** till the work is 
long enough. Join. Do not make this ruching any 




Lady's Slipper 

longer than is needed to go over the foot, and when 
sewing to the slipper, fasten at the back, then at 
the front, then the quarters at the sides, so that 
it is even; sew smoothly and firmly, but not with 
too small stitches, and if needed leave places where 
an elastic can be run through. 

In the model ruching the two colors were used 
alternately, first a light then a dark stitch, then a 
light, then 2 dark stitches. Work plainly back. 
In the next row alternate by working first a dark 
and then a light stitch. Work plainly back. It may 
be done this way, or two rows of dark loops, then 
one of light. It is immaterial so long as the slipper 
looks pretty, and it is usually arranged to suit the 
quantity of wool remaining. In sewing to sole, it 
is preferred by many to join the two sides of the 
front part to make a raised toe, arrange the front 
part of slipper easily, the heel snugly, and the bend 
at the sides quite snugly. If the toe is sewn on 
flat, instead of raised, ease it well at the front of 
toe. The raised toe is usually preferred. Many 
sew the sole to slipper right side out, as it does not 
stretch the slipper and when worn soon hides the 
stitches and sewing. An elastic run in under the 
loop knitting finishes the slipper, or it can be 
omitted if preferred. 

LADY'S UNDERVEST 

This vest will require about seven ounces four- 
ply wool and one pair long needles, No. 10. The 
knitting measures five stitches to the inch in width ; 
the vest will fit a figure from 31 to 33 chest. 

Cast on 100 stitches and knit 20 rows in rib of 
k 2, p 2, alternately. 

Border.- — Knit 2 rows of p 2, k 2, to change the 
rib, then 2 rows again of k 2, p 2 ; repeat in this 
manner until there are 5 rows of checks. 

42c? row. — From this row knit in ribs of k 2, p 2. 



Every 6th row decrease by knitting 2 tog at the 
commencement and end of the row; reduce until 
you have 76 stitches, then knit 56 rows in ribs. 

Divide the knitting into two parts, 38 stitches 
for one side of the front ; on these continue to knit 
for 66 rows. 

164//; ro'iv. — Cast off 12; these are on the side 
where the work divides ; knit the remainder in ribs. 

Shoulder. — Knit 50 rows on the 26 stitches, then 
leave them on a thread. Commence again on the 
38 stitches left on the other half of the work. Knit 
66 rows. Cast off the first 12 stitches in the 67th 
row ; then knit 50 rows on the remaining stitches. 
At the end of the 50th row cast on 24 stitches and 
knit the 26 left on the other shoulder. 

Back. — Knit 122 rows in ribs. 

123c/ row. — Increase one stitch by knitting 2 in 
the 2d stitch, and knit 2 also in the last stitch but 
one. Increase every 6th row in this manner until 
there are the same number of rows on this piece 
as on the front. Then knit 21 rows of the border, 
20 more rows of ribbing, and cast off with a cro- 
chet-hook loosely. 

Sleeve. — Count the rows from the centre of the 
shoulder. Take up the stitches on the 56th row of 
the front. Mark the corresponding row on the 
back. Take up all the intermediate stitches, and 
knit 2 plain rows. Knit 30 rows, decreasing once 




Ladies' Undervest 

at the commencement of each row. Then knit 20 
rows of rib to match the other part, and crochet off 
the stitches. Join up the sides of the vest and the 



14 



sleeves. These should be joined stitch by stitch, 
first over one side and under the other, drazving 
them together. 

Opening in Front. — On the left-hand side of 
the front, as the work faces you, take up each 
stitch on the edge and two more. On these knit 4 
plain rows of knitting; in the 5th row knit 3, over 
twice, knit 2 tog, repeat this every 9th stitch, for 
the four buttonholes ; then 7 rows of plain knitting. 

Edge. — With the crochet-hook work a row of d 
c on each side the front and around the neck. 

2d row. — One d c, * 3 ch, miss 2 d c, 1 d c on the 
next, repeat from *. Add buttons. 

MOTOR SCARF, No. 1 

Materials. — Three skeins of Shetland floss, any desired color, 
a pair of No. i bone needles. Make the scarf from 15 
inches to 18 inches wide and 2 yards long, including fringe. 

Begin with any number of stitches divisible by 8 
and 4 more. For the 15-inch width cast on 130 
stitches. 

1st rozv. — * Knit 4. draw the 6th st through the 
5th and k it, then k the 5th, draw 8th through the 
7th, k it, then k the 8th, and repeat from * across 
the row. Always slip 1st st. 

2d row. — Purl 4, draw 6th through 5th, and 8th 
through 7th, as in 1st row, p 4, and repeat across 
the row. 

Repeat the 1st and 2d rows twice more, making 
6 rows. 

fth rozv. — Same as 2d. 

8th rozv. — Same as 1st. 

Repeat 7th and 8th twice more, making 12 rows 
in all. 

The next 6 rows are same as the first 6 rows. 




Motor Scarf, No. i 

It will now be seen the work shows a small open 
stripe, and a wider stripe of basket stitch. 

Cut the fringe in 18-inch lengths, double three 
threads in a group, and fasten across the ends. 
Knot as seen in illustration. 



MOTOR SCARF, No. 2 

Materials. — Three skeins of Shetland floss, any desired color, 
a pair of No. i bone needles. Make the scarf from 15 
to 18 inches wide and 2 yards long, including fringe. 

Cast on any number of stitches divisible by 5 and 
3 more. 

1st rozv. — * Knit 3, thread over twice and p 2 tog, 




Motor Scarf, No. 2 



k 3, over twice and p 2 tog, and repeat from the *, 
ending with k 3. 

Slip first st of every row. 

This first row is repeated for the length of the 
scarf. 

Tie on fringe and knot. 

If desired the sides of the scarf may be finished 
with a small shell in crochet. 



SCARF SHAWL 

Materials. — Sixteen skeins of white Shetland floss, i pair of 
large wooden needles and a bone crochet-hook. 

The shawl is knit in basket stitch. Cast on 103 
stitches, using the yarn double 

1st rozv. — * Knit 3, p 7, and repeat from *. 

2d row. — * Purl 3, k 7, and repeat from *. 

3d rozv. — Like the first. 

4th rozv. — Purl. 

$th rczv. — Purl 5, * k 3, 
ending with p 5. 

6th rozv. — Knit 5, * p 3, 

yth rozv. — Same as 5th. 

8th rozv. — Purl. 

These 8 rows complete the pattern. Repeat the 
8 rows until the shawl is 1 1-2 yards long, or longer 
if desired. Bind off. 

Across the sides crochet a row of s c, then a row 
of shells of 6 d c, fastened with a s c. 

Across each end crochet a row of cross treble 
stitch thus : chain 3, thread over twice, take up 
a stitch in the 2d stitch beneath, draw thread 



p 7, and repeat from *, 
k 7, and repeat from *. 



15 




Scarf Shawl 

through 2 stitches on hook, thread over again, take 
a stitch in 2d from the last, crochet off 2 at a time, 
ch 2, d c in the stitch at the crossing in the treble. 
The next treble begins in the last stitch of the pre- 
ceding treble. 

Cut the fringe 10 inches long, tie 6 strands in 
each 2 ch of the treble row. Make 2 rows o>f 
knotting in the fringe. 



HUG-ME-TIGHT 



No. 8 



Small Size. — Materials. — Five ounces four-ply wool, 
needles. Plain knitting throughout. 

Cast on 45 stitches, k pi for 14 inches, always 
slipping the first stitch. 

Cast on 45 more stitches, and on these 90 stitches 
k pi for 7 inches. Cast off extra 45 stitches. 



Knit pi for 14 inches with the original 45 stitches 
Cast off. 

To Make Up. — Sew the original 45 stitches cast 
on to the extra 45 stitches cast on, to form one 
armhole. 

Sew the "casting off" of the original 45 stitches 
to the "casting off" of the extra casting off, to 
form the second armhole. 

To Form the Neck. — Make a hem, wide in the 
middle and sloping off to nothing where the ends 
meet in front. Put four buttons and buttonholes 
down the front. Finish with a simple crochet edge 
around the garment. 




Hug-me-Tight 

Large Size. — Materials'. — Six ounces four-ply wool, 2 No. 8 
needles. Plain knitting throughout. 

Cast on 54 stitches, k pi for 18 inches, always 
slipping the first stitch. 

Then cast on 54 more stitches, and on these 108 
stitches k 9 inches. 

Now cast off the extra 54 stitches, and k 18 
inches on the original 54 stitches. Cast off. 

Make up in the same way as the small size. 

HUG-ME-TIGHT 

A full two ounces of main color in good full 
four-ply wool or yarn. Look at the difference be- 
tween the two, when purchasing; the wool is the 
softer and fluffier, the yarn is a little the stronger 
and not so fluffy. Except for very hard wear we 
think the wool is the best. A slightly less amount 
than the two ounces of the same kind of wool as 
that selected for the main color will be needed for 
the border, but it might be well to get the two 



16 



ounces. Gray for the main shade, with darker 
gray or black for border. Crimson is also a very 
pretty border, or crimson for main shade and black 
or dark gray for border, and so on. 

For needles, No. 7 are a good size, unless you 
knit very tightly, when you may use No. 6. Ten 
inches long are nice, as they allow of resting in the 
elbow, if needed, but any length will serve, almost. 
For a small size No. 8 needles might be used. 

Begin by casting on 36 stitches easily in the main 
shade. No slipped stitches anywhere. After start- 
ing with the trimming shade in the 2d row, simply 
change from one to the other without detaching 
the wool. 

1st row. — Work back in plain knitting in main 
color. 

2d row. — Work 26 stitches in main color and 10 
in trimming shade. 

2)d rozv. — Knit back, 10 in trimming shade and 26 
in main color. 

4th rozv. — Twenty-six stitches in main color, 10 
in trimming shade. 

$th row. — Ten in trimming shade, 26 in main 
color. 

6th row. — All main color. 

jth row. — All main color, like the 6th row. 

Begin again with the 2d row. When you have 
repeated the whole six rows about 15 times more, 
cast on another 36 stitches at the plain end, making 
J2 stitches in all. Make the fancy part match as 
well as possible. Work on these 72 stitches, 
making a border at the second side to match the 
border on the first side, beginning 10 stitches from 
the outside edge. Yoii will find, in this middle 
part, that you always have to purl the 10 stitches 
of border on the second side to get 
them to match those on the first 
side. Repeat the striping 15 or 
16 times, according to width of back 
desired. 

Then cast off smoothly 36 stitches, 
evenly with the stitches cast on for 
the back; make the second arm- 
hole like the first. Cast off, and 
sew the cast-off and cast-on edges 
together at each end so that two 
armholes are made. 

It is a great improvement to sew 
two or three loops of silk cord, or 
twisted or crocheted wool on one 
side of front, and good-sized but- 
tons, preferably flat, and sewn on 
with a slight shank of thread, to the 
other side of front, strengthening 
underneath each button (not the 
whole front, or you destroy its 
elasticity) with a piece of binding, 
tape or goods. Buttoning draws 



" 



the hug-me-tight together over the chest in a very 
snug, comfortable fashion. It is wise to loosely 
sew the loose sides of the fancy part to the main 
portion of the hug-me-tight. 

Note. — You can, if you have a third needle and 
prefer to do so, pick up 36 stitches at the end of 
the arm strip, and knit on them to make up the 72 
needed for the middle of the back, and at the sec- 
ond end, the 36 stitches from the back can be left 
on the spare needle. When the arm piece is long 
enough the needle containing it can be laid in 
proper position by the side of the needle holding 
the stitches from the back. Then, taking a stitch 
from each needle, they can be knitted together and 
cast off evenly, the casting off being preferably on 
the wrong side of the work. 

LADY'S HEAD WRAP 

Materials. — About 6 skeins or 4 ounces of three or 7 skeins of 
four ply Saxony wool, or any fine, soft, three or four ply 
wool will do, but Saxony is softest. Number 10 bone needles 
and a fine crochet-hook. 

Cast on 302 stitches easily. Purl one row. 

1st rozv. — Slip 1, k 2, * o, k 2 tog, repeat from *, 
and k the last st, cast on 8 at the end. 

2d rozv. — Purl, cast on 8 at the end. 

3d row. — Slip 1, k 1, * o, k 2 tog, repeat from *, 
cast on 8 at the end. 

4th row. — Purl, cast on 8 at the end. Repeat 
these four rows once. 

gth row. — Slip 1, k 2, * o, k 2 tog, repeat from 
*, and k the last st. 

10th row. — Purl. 

nth row. — Slip 1, 
from *. 

12th rozv. — Purl. 



k 1, * o, k 2 tog, and repeat 





Hug-me-Tight 



—Slip i, k 2, k 2 tog, * o, k 2 tog, re- 
until within 3 st of the end, then k 2 



Repeat the last four 



Repeat the last four 



13th row.- 
peat from * 
tog, k 1. 

\\tli row. — Slip 1, p 2 tog, p until within 3 st of 
the end, then p 2 tog, p 1. 

15//1 row. — Slip 1, k 1, k 2 tog, * o, k 2 tog, re- 
peat from * until within 2 st of the end, k these 
tog. 

16th row. — Purl 2 tog, p to within 2 st of the end, 
p these tog. Repeat the last four rows seven times. 
45? h row.- — Cast off 60, k 2, * o, k 2 tog, repeat 
from *, and k the last st. 
46^/1 rozv. — Cast off 60, p. 
47//1 row. — Same as nth. 
48^/1 row. — Purl. 
4gfh row. — Same as 13th. 
^otli row. — Same as 14th. 
$ist row. — Same as 15th. 
52c? row. — Same as 16th. 
rows nine times. 
8gtli rozv. — Same as 9th. 
goth row. — Same as 10th. 
gist row. — Same as nth. 
g2d rozv. — Same as 12th. 
rows seventeen times. 

Ntxt rozv. — Knit 2 tog all along. Cast off. 
Border. — Work one ordinary tr in the first st 
then * 6 extra long tr, then one ordinary tr, all into 

the same st, miss 3 
st, put one ordi- 
nary tr in the 
fourth st, and re- 
peat from *. 

For the ordinary 
tr, wind the wool 
round the needle 
twice, for the extra 
long, wind the wool 
round the needle 
three times. 

To Make up the 
Wrap. — The cast- 
off stitches should 
be gathered up 
tightly, so that the 
shells form a sort 
,of rosette, behind 
which a bow of rib- 
bon is placed. 
When the wrap is 
worn, the long ends 
cross in front and 
tie loosely at the 
back of the neck. 
In case any mistake is made in the knitting, un- 
less very noticeable, do not undo it, but simply take 
in or let out, or go on and "do better" as the case 
calls for. In an article which is wrapped round 











Head Wrap 



the head or neck as this is, stitches in the work are 
not noticed much, while a draggled place through 
the wool being stretched would usually be seen 
much more. 

OPERA HOOD 

Materials. — Two skeins white Shetland floss, 2 large wooden 
needles, 2 small bone needles, 1 bone crochet-hook, and 2 yards 
of thin taffeta ribbon. 

Cast 10 stitches on the bone needles, and k 10 
rows plain, widening i stitch every row in front, 
that will be i stitch in each ridee, k next row on 




Opera Hood 

the wooden needles, then an open row by knitting 
1, o, k 2 tog, o, k 2 tog, to end of the row, then 2 
plain rows. Repeat the last 3 rows, widening the 
same as before and continue until there are 30 
stitches on the needle. On the bone needles make 
10 ridges, then repeat the openwork on the wooden 
needles. This makes 50 stitches on the needle. 
On bone needles k 5 ridges, widening in each 
ridge, then 5 ridges, narrowing in each ridge. 
Make two sections on the wooden needles and 2 
on the bone to correspond with the first half of 
the hood, except the stitch is narrowed instead 
of widened in each ridge. Bind off. The edge 
is crocheted in 2 rows. Begin at corner with s c, 
wrap yarn over the finger 3 times and fasten 
with s c to form a ring, s c in next stitch. Con- 
tinue all around the hood. Chain 3, s c in the 
first ring, (ch 3, s c in the ring) 3 times, ch 3, s c 



18 



between the rings, and repeat around the hood. 
Draw in the front a little and fasten a bow of the 
ribbon at the top. Use remainder of the ribbon 
for ties. 

THEATRE HOOD 

The directions for this knitted hood are very 
simple. It can easily be done in plain knitting, by 
any one who has but little experience in knitting. It 




Theatre Hood 

is also very pretty made with a fancy stitch, and al- 
most any of the many varieties of fancy stitches can 
be adapted to it. It is knit of Shetland floss, on fine 
bone or rubber needles. 

Cast on 70 stitches and knit 55 ribs. Now take 



off half the number of stitches on a cord, and knit 
the remaining 35 for 68 ribs to form a tab, and 
bind off. Take up the other stitches and knit the 
tab to correspond with the other. Crochet a scallop 
all_ around the hood and tabs and take four shallow 
plaits in the hood about 12 ribs from the border and 
place a ribbon bow where the plaits are taken. 



BEADED WRISTERS 

These silk wristers are about three and one-half 
inches deep, with a border pattern in gold beads. 
Two needles are used and the work must be mod- 
erately tight, so as to throw up the beads well, 
which, however, should not crowd each other, but 
lie so that each bead forms one stitch of the pattern. 
The bead must be large enough for this purpose, as 
a small one looks poor. 

Cast on 40 stitches. 

1st rozv. — Slip the first stitch, knit 2, pass up a 
bead, knit 4, then a bead, knit 4, pass up another 
bead, knit the rest of the row plain. 

2d row. — Plain. 

3d row. — Slip the first stitch, knit 1, pass up a 
bead before each of the next 3 stitches, knit 1 stitch, 
without a bead, then 3 stitches with a bead before 
each, 1 plain stitch, 3 bead stitches, then plain to 
the end. 

\th row. — Plain. 

$th rozv. — Same as first. 

6th row. — Plain. 

yth row. — Slip the first, knit 4 plain, 1 bead 
stitch, 3 plain, 1 bead stitch, 3 plain, 1 bead stitch, 
then plain to the end of the row. 

8th rozv. — Plain. 

gth rozv. — Slip the first, 3 plain, 3 bead stitches, I 
plain, 3 bead stitches, 1 plain, 3 bead stitches, plain 
to end of row. 

10th rozv.- — Plain. 

nth row. — Same as 7th. 

I2ih row. — Plain. 

Repeat these twelve rows until the cuff is large 
enough. It is a good plan to make it one-fourth 
inch iess than the size of wrist, as the work 
stretches a little. This is a small size. For a 
larger wrister cast on more stitches. Steel and 
chalk-white beads are also pretty. 



SHAWL 

This is a light yet warm shawl made of Saxony 
yarn. It requires one pound of the yarn and is 
knitted in three parts. For the centre square use 
medium-sized wooden needles and cast on 182 



19 



stitches, or any number divisible by 
four, adding one extra for each 
end. 

ist row. — Slip i ; * k i, p i, k i, in 
next st ; p 3 tog * and repeat from * to 
* across row. Knit last st. 

2d row. — Purl across. 

2)d row. — Slip i ; * p 3 tog. Knit 
1, p 1, in next st * and repeat across 
row. Knit last st. 

4th row. — Purl across. Repeat 
from first row until square is worked, 
which requires about 180 rows. 

For the cable pattern, three me- 
dium-sized steel needles are re- 
quired. Cast on 18 stitches. 

ist row. — Slip 1, k 1, n, o 2, n, k 
6, p 6. 

2d row. — -Slip 1, k 1, n, o 2, n, p 6, 
k 2, p 1, k 3. 

3d row. — Purl 6, k 6, p 2, k 1, p 3. 

4th row. — Slip 1, k 5, p 6, k 6. 

$th row. — Slip 1, k 1, n, o 2, n, k 
6, p 6. 

6th roiv. — Slip 1, k 1, n, o 2, n, take a third needle 
and purl three stitches, leaving them on the needle 
at the back. Now with the first right-hand needle 
purl the next three stitches, k 2, p 1, k 3. 

yth row. — Purl 6, knit the three stitches on the 
needle at the back of work; knit the three stitches 
on the left-hand needle and p 2, k 1, p 3. 

8th row. — Knit 6, p 6, k 6. Repeat from first 
row and make a strip long enough to go around 



^ 



:% 





Knitted Shawl with Crochet Border 

The next section is the same stitch as the centre. 
Cast on 18 stitches and knit a strip long enough to 
go on one side, then form corner as follows: 

ist row. — Slip 1, * k 1, p 1, k 1, in next st, p 3 
tog *. Repeat from * to * three times, leaving the 
last stitch on needle, and turn and purl back. Purl 
every even numbered row. 



-Slip 



p 3 tog. Knit 1, p 1, 



k 1, in 
Purl 3 




Section of Border of Shawl 

centre square. Sew the strip to the square and run 
ribbon through the holes. 



3a row. 
next st *. Repeat from * to * two times, 
tog, leave 2 st on needle, turn. 

$th row— Like first row, leaving 3 st on needle. 

yth row. — Like second row, leaving 4 st on 
needle. 

gth row. — Like first row, leaving 5 st on needle. 

nth row. — Like second row, leaving 6 st on 
needle. 

13^ row. — Like first row, leaving 7 st on needle. 

15th row. — Like second row, leaving 8 st on 
needle. 

17^/1 row. — Slip 1 ; k 1, p 1, k 1, in every st but 
last one and knit that. 

19th row. — Slip 1, p 3 tog. Turn. 

21.?/ rozv. — Slip 1 ; k 1, p 1, k 1, in next st, p 3 tog. 
Turn. 

23c? row. — Slip 1, p 3 tog; k 1, p 1, k 1, in next 
st, p 3 tog. Turn. 

25th row. — Slip 1 ; * k 1, p 1, k 1, in next st, p 3 
tog *. Repeat from * to * once and turn. 

27^/1 rozv. — Slip 1 ; * p 3 tog, k 1, p 1, k 1, in next 
st *. Repeat once more, p 3 tog and turn. 

29th row. — Slip 1 ; * k 1, p 1, k 1, in next st; p 3 
tog *. Repeat from * to * two times and turn. 

31.?^ rozv. — Slip 1 ; * p 3 tog, k 1, p 1, k 1, in next 
st *. Repeat two times more, p 3 tog and turn. 



20 



32>>~- row. — Slip i; * k I, p I, k I, in next st, k 3 
tog *. Repeat from * to * three times. Turn. Con- 
tinue on the second side. When the four sides 
and four corners are finished, sew to the large 
square. 

For the crocheted border make 5 d c, ch 2, 5 
d c in same space. Skip a space, make 1 d c. Skip 
a space and repeat. Work around shawl five times, 
then around twice, making 6 d c instead of 5 ; then 
around once with 18 d c without any ch. 

NEGLIGEE SACK 

Materials. — The materials required for this sack are 7 skeins of 
white and 1 of violet Saxony yarn, 3 yards of No. 12 violet 
ribbon, and 1 skein of embroidery twist of the same shade. 

The sack is made in nine pieces. Use two large 
wooden or bone needles. No. i, for the body of 
the sack, and the largest size steel needles, for the 
fluted border. 

For the back, cast on 112 stitches, k two rows 
plain. 

3d row. — * Knit 4, o, n, k 2, repeat from * all 
the way across. Knit back and 
forth for 188 rounds, then narrow 
off shoulder thus : Narrow 2 stitches 
— on each end of every round till 
there are 47 stitches left, and bind 
off for neck. 

For front, cast on 90 stitches, k 
as for back for 59 rounds, bind off 
15 stitches for under arm. Knit 23 
rounds- as before. This brings the 
work to the front. Now k 4 stitches 
in 1, bind off in this place in the 
same way four times (that is in 
every other round). Now bind off 
2 stitches every 4th round for 33 
rounds. Then begin to narrow for 
the shoulder as in back, still nar- 
rowing in front as before, till there 
are but 2 stitches left ; bind these 
off. 

For sleeve, cast on 32 stitches, k 
2 rounds plain, then k as in body 
of sack, only cast on 4 stitches at 
end of each round till there are 116 
stitches in all. Knit 2 rounds with- 
out narrowing. Then narrow at be- 
ginning and end of round, in every 
12th round, till there are but 80 
stitches. Knit 4 rounds and bind 
off. 

For zvrist ruffle, cast on 16 stitches, * k across 
plain, then p back all but 3, leaving the 3 stitches 
ot the needle, turn and k back 13, p 13, k 3, k 3, p 



13, k 13, p 13, k 16, repeat from * widen at begin- 
ning of every third rib, till there are 21 stitches in 
all; then k 21 ribs without widening. By leaving 
the 3 stitches without knitting the upper edge of 
the ruffle is not so full as the lower edge. Narrow 
off in same way you widened until their are 16 
stitches left. Make 4 ribs without narrowing and 
sew edges together. 

To make the neck ruffle, cast on 16 stitches and 
widen as for the wrist ruffle, till there are 27 
stitches. Make 35 ribs without widening, then 
narrow off as you widened. 

The ruffle on the lower edge of sack has 22 
stitches and is not widened. There are 194 ribs 
in lower ruffle. Sew sleeve and shoulder seams in 
over-and-over stitch. Sew under-arm seams to 
make the open work come right ; this is best done 
by hemming one edge over the other ; sew sleeve 
in with over-and-over stitch, leaving the fulness at 
top of sleeve. Sew sleeve and lower ruffle on by 
lapping over the lower edge of sleeve and body of 
sack. Finish with a heading of brier-stitch done 
with the violet silk. 




Negligee Sack 

To finish the neck crochet around it thus : * I 
d c, 2 ch, miss 2 stitches, repeat from * all around. 
Sew ruffle to top of this crochet work in over-and- 



over stitch. Run ribbon through the open work 
and tie with long ends in front. Make two bows 
of the ribbon for the wrists, finish ruffles with a 
crochet edge of the violet yarn done in d c. 

BED SOCKS 

These socks require about 3 ounces of German- 
town and No. 11 needles. 

Cast on 40 stitches on one needle. 
1st row. — Knit plain. 

2d row. — Increase 1 stitch at beginning of line, 
k plain. 

2,d, 4th, $th, 6th, yth, 8th, gth rows — the same 
as 2d row. 

10th row. — Knit plain. 

nth row. — Increase one at beginning; repeat 
these two rows till you have 
58 stitches on your needle. 

30th row. — Knit 33 stitches ; 
take another needle, and k 
the remaining 25 on to that, 
k 'these 25 stitches 22 times 
(to form a sort of toe-cap). 
53d row. — Knit the 25 
stitches plain, and then cast 
on to the same needle 33 
l stitches to cor- 

respond with 
the ones left 
behind. 

54th row. — 
Knit plain. 




{ 4 







Bed Sock 



55?/f row. — Take 2 tog at beginning of row. Re- 
peat these 2 rows till you have 48 stitches on your 
needle, and then take 2 tog at the beginning of 
every row till you have 40 stitches, k one plain row 
and cast off. 

To complete the leg, pick up the 33 cast-on 
stitches which correspond with the 33 left behind, 
and then pick up 12 across where the instep be- 
gins, and knit the 33 stitches from the first needle, 
making 78 in all. Knit back and forth plain for 
about 25 or 30 rows. Finish with about 3 inches 
of ribbing by knitting 2 and purling 2. Bind off 
loosely. Sew up the sock along the back and under 
side of the foot. 



LUNG PROTECTOR 



Materials. — Three skeins Germantown and 
needles, No. i. 



a pair of bone 



of each row until there are 60 sts on the needle. 
Continue back and forth in plain knitting until the 
work is 9 inches deep. 

To shape the work around the neck, take 30 of the 
stitches for one side, narrow a stitch at the neck 




Begin at the bottom by casting on 50 stitches. 
Knit back and forth, widening 1st at the beginning 

22 



Lung Protector 

in each ridge (2 rows) until only 18 stitches are 
left on the needle. 

For the next 17 ridges widen a st at the neck and 
narrow a st at the outer edge in each ridge, thus 
keeping 18 on the needle. Finish the work off 
to a point by narrowing a st at the outer edge in 
each ridge until the stitches are all narrowed off. 

Take the 30 stitches for the other side and work 
same as for the first side. 

Take up the stitches around the neck for the col- 
lar, and knit 2 and purl 2 every row, until the ribbing 
is one and one-half inches deep. 

Crochet a row of shells all around the protector. 

This size is large enough for an adult. For a 
child's size begin with 40 stitches, then increase to 
50 and finish same as this one. 

LADY'S SILK MITTENS 

Materials. — Two and one-half spools of knitting-silk, and four 
No. 19 steel needles. 

These directions make a No. 6 mitten, glove-fit- 
ting. Cast 24 stitches on each of 3 needles and 
knit as follows : 

1st round. — Knit 2 and p 2 alternately. 

2d round. — Same as the first. 

$d round. — Purl 1, * k 2, p 2, and repeat from * 
to the last stitch which is purled. 

4th round. — Same as third. 



5th round. — Purl 2 and k 2 alternately. 

6th round. — Same as fifth. 

ytli round. — Knit 1, * p 2, k 2 and repeat from *. 

8th round. — Same as seventh. 

Repeat these 8 rows 4 times more, or if a long 
wrist is desired, 5 times. Knit 3 rounds plain, then 
begin the thumb thus : 

1st round. — Knit 9, p 1, k 2, p 1, finish the round 
plain. 

2d round. — ^Knit 9, p 1 ; widen on each of the next 
2 stitches by knitting the binding stitch of each of 
these stitches, thus leaving no holes in the work, p 
1, rest of round plain. 

Knit 3 rounds plain. 

6th round. — Knit 9, p 1, widen on next stitch, k 3, 
widen on next, p 1, rest of round plain. 

Repeat from the 2d round, increasing the num- 
ber of stitches between the widenings by 2 each 
time, until there are 12 between the widenings, al- 
ways purling the purled stitches each round, as 
they outline the thumb. Continue the work with 
only 2 plain rows between the widening rows until 
24 stitches have been widened on for the thumb. 

Knit 5 rounds plain. Knit to the first purled 
stitch, run the 24 stitches on a thread, cast on 6 
stitches, finish the round plain, and k one more 
plain round. Narrow 1 stitch in the middle of the 
cast on stitches every round until 4 have been nar- 
rowed. 

Knit 48 rounds plain, then begin to narrow off 
thus: 

* Knit 10, n, repeat from * to end of round 
Knit 3 plain rounds. 

Next round. — * Knit 9, n, and repeat from 
Knit 3 plain rounds. 

Next round. — * Knit 8, n, and repeat from 
Knit 3 plain rounds. 

Next round. — * Knit 7, n, and repeat from 
Knit 2 plain rounds. 

Next round. — *Knit 6, n, and repeat from 
Knit 2 plain rounds. 

Next round. — * Knit 5, n, and repeat from 
Knit 1 plain round. 

Next round. — * Knit 4, n, and repeat from *. 

Next round. — * Knit 3, n, and repeat from * 

Next round.- — * Knit 2, n, and repeat from *. 

Next round. — * Knit 1, n, and repeat from *. 

Run the silk through the last stitches and fasten 
securely. 

To Make the Thumb.— Take up the 24 stitches, 
8 on each of 2 needles, the other 8 (4 on each side) 
on the needle with the 6 cast on stitches. 

1st round. — Plain. 

2d round. — Knit first 2 needles plain, k 4, bind 
off 1, k 2, n, k 4. 



2,d round. — Plain. 

4th round. — Knit 2 needles plain, k 4, bind off I, 
n, k 4. 

~,th round. — Knit 2 needles, k 4, n, k 4. 

Knit 18 rounds plain, then with an equal number 
of stitches on each needle, narrow a stitch at the 
end of each needle in every round until all the 
stitches are narrowed off. 

Finish the wrist with a row of shells, using a 
steel hook, each shell of 6 d c fastened by a s c 
and close enough to keep the wrist elastic. 

To make any sized mitten from these directions, 
measure the hand as for a glove and allow 10 
stitches to the inch. Increase the number of 
stitches added for the thumb and the number of 
r ounds both in the thumb part and at the end of 
the fingers. 

BATH MITTEN 

Many persons prefer a mitten to a sponge for 
bathing. It is certainly more convenient, and if 
made of 
suitable ma- 
terial is alto- 
gether more 
cleansing, be- 
sides possess- 
ing the addi- 
tional merit 
of being easily 
kept clean and 
sweet. 

Two me- 
dium -sized 
wooden knit- 
t i n g needles 
and 54 yards 
of linen tape 
will be re- 
quired to make 
one like the il- 
lustration. 

T o begin, 
cast on 33 
stitches. 

1st to lgth 
rows. — Knit 
3, purl 3 to 
end of row. 

In the next 
42 rows knit plain, then cast off, and sew up 
the end. Sew up the side of the mitten and the 
ribbed wrist, leaving a proper-sized opening 
for the thumb. Use the same kind of tape and a 
tape needle for the sewing, and put the stitches in 
neatly so that the joining will not be noticed. 




Bath Mitten 



23 



The thumb is made separately. Begin at the 
end. Cast on 12 stitches and knit plain for 18 
rows, * next row narrow 1 at each end, next row 
plain, continue from * until but 1 stitch is left on 
the needle, then push oft. 

Draw the broad end together and sew strongly 
with tape, sew up the side of the thumb, fit it prop- 
erly in the mitten, and sew it neatly in on the 
wrong side. Sew a loop of the tape on the inside 
of the wrist to hang it up by. 

KNEE CAPS 

About 2 3-4 ounces of material are required for 
these knee caps. Two No. 15 needles are needed 
for the first part of the directions, and two more 
when the stitches are picked up. 

Cast on 96 stitches, k 1, p 1, backwards and for- 
wards for 50 rows to make a welt (begin the row 
with pi), then the next row will be knitted in the 
brioche stitch. 

1st row.- — Bring thread forward, si 1, k 1. 

2d row. — Bring thread forward, si 1, k 2. Re- 
peat this 2d row 23 times. 

26th row. — Bring thread forward, si 1, k 2, bring 
thread forward, decrease 1 rib (that is 3 stitches), 
continue to k the pattern till the third rib from the 
end, and then decrease another whole rib, k the 
pattern to the end of the row. 

Continue the brioche stitch, decreasing every 6th 
row (observing that there only appear to be three 
rows between each decreasing, as it takes two rows 
in brioche stitch to complete a pattern) till there 
are 16 ribs on your needle (48 stitches). Take a 




' -' '.'V-v./;.. ' "**£* 



third needle and pick up 32 stitches down the side, 
missing every third loop; this brings you to where 
you began decreasing. Knit back on this needle, 
thread forward, si 1, k 1, making 48 stitches (this 
makes a neater join than if you picked up every 
stitch and then k 2 tog coming back). Knit the 
next needle in the pattern, and pick up the stitches 
on the opposite side with another needle in the 
same way only pick up your stitches purl way in- 
stead of plain. First needle k back, thread for- 
ward, si 1, k 1. You will now have 48 stitches on 
each needle, 144 in all, same as you had at the be- 
ginning. You will find it easier to keep your 
stitches on three needles and k with a fourth. 

Knit 24 more rows (12 forward and 12 back). 
Then begin the welt, p 1, k 2 tog, p 1, k 2 tog. 

2d row. — Purl 1, k 1. Continue this for 50 rows. 
Cast off loosely and sew up. 

It makes a better edge to your welt if the first 
stitch is slipped (purl way), off the needle, but the 
second stitch must be knitted plain, not purled, in 
order to continue the same rib when the brioche 
stitch begins. 

LADY'S SKIRT 

Use Germantown and two long bone needles 
about No. 10. The skirt is in two separate widths, 
each about 42 inches wide at the bottom, and joined 
at the middle of the front and back. For each 
width cast on 273 stitches. Knit four rows back 
and forth plain. 

k 2 together, wool 
tog, k 1, repeat from 



over 
* all 






Knee Cap 



$th row. — Knit 1, * 
needle, k 1, o, k 1, k 2 
across. 

6th row. — Purl. 

yth row. — Knit plain. 

8th row. — Purl. 

gth row. — Like 5th row. Repeat three times 
from 5th row, then the upper part of the skirt knit 
as follows : 

1st row 1 . — Knit plain, in this and all the following 
rows, decrease one stitch at the beginning of each 
row to form the slope. 

2d row. — Purl. 

3d row. — * Purl 2, k 1, repeat from * all across. 

4th row. — Like 3d row. Repeat from 1st row 
until you have the required length. 

Owing to the decrease the number to be knitted 
or purled, as the case may be, at the beginning of 
each row must necessarily be irregular, but care 
must be taken that the one stitch forming the per- 
pendicular rib is kept in a straight line. In the 
border of the skirt, if the holes are liked larger, 
throw the wool over needle twice instead of once, 
and dropping the second over when knitting back. 
Make the other width same as this one except the 
decreasing at the back. Do this at the end of the 
rows. Sew the top into a yoke or belt. 



24 



KNEE CAPS 

Materials. — About 2 full ounces of a good 4-ply soft wool, and 
4 bone needles pointed at both ends, .No. 11, or if you knit 
at all closely use No. 10. 

Knitting is very suited to this knee cap, as it is so 
elastic, yet firm and clinging. Cast on 60 stitches in 
a round and knit in a rib of 3 plain and 3 purl until 
three inches are done. Now mark off 15 sts and 
remember these 15 are ribbed throughout the 
cap. There are 3 plain sts at the 
beginning and 3 plain sts at the end 
of these 15 sts. These 15 will not again 
be mentioned except as they happen to 
be knitted. The 45 sts left must be 
knitted. 

Having knitted the 45, * turn, k 39 ; 
turn, k ^, turn, k 27, turn, k 21, turn, k 
15; turn, k 9, turn, and k all along. Rib 
the 15, k the 45, and repeat from * 
three times more. This will bring you to 
the half knee. 

Now reverse the sequence thus : *. 
Turn and k 27 ; turn and k 9 ; turn and k 
15; turn and k 21; turn and k 27; turn 
and k 33 ; turn, k 39 ; turn and k to the 
first needle; rib the 15, k 45, and repeat 
from the last * three times more. Then 
rib for four inches and cast off very 
easily. Run in the ends. 

Note. — If it is not convenient to use four needles 
in a round, which necessitates them being pointed 
at both ends, use two fairly long needles and sew 
up the knee-cap afterwards, or if you do not notice 
the weight you can get four No. 10 steel needles. 

LADY'S GOLF VEST 

These pretty vests are very popular during the 
spring. They are designed to be worn with Eton 
jackets or for added warmth under the coat for 
early spring wear. If it is desirable to have 
sleeves, silk ones can be put in in color to match 
the vest, as, by having them of silk, the coat can 
be easily slipped on and off. The vests are made 
in any color, from white to black, and can be 
varied by the contrasting color of the embroidered 
stars. For golfers, those of bright golf red, with 
the stars embroidered in green, are quite correct. 

Begin at the lower edge of the back. Cast on 
90 stitches. Knit one, purl (sometimes called 
seam) one, alternately knitting and purling the 
stitches until the end of the row is reached, then 
always purl the last stitch on the needle, and when 
the work has been turned to knit back, take off the 
first stitch without knitting, which will make the 
edge of the work more perfect and firm, and this 
rule should be followed all through the work. 
Knit in this way for 15 inches. Take off 33 



stitches at each end of the row on separate needles, 
and bind oft' the 24 intervening stitches to form 
the back of the neck. Take up the 33 stitches at 
one end of the row, and knit for the shoulder, 
knitting and purling as before, for 1 inch. Then 
begin to widen one stitch at the end of each row 
on the front edge of the vest, continuing to widen 
in this way for 5 inches. Then knit 14 rows, 
widening one stitch on the front edge and one on 




Knee Cap 

the back edge. Now cast on 30 stitches toward 
the back or under-arm seam. Widen one stitch on 
the front edge, keeping the under-arm seam 
straight. Then begin narrowing one stitch on the 
front and one on the under-arm seam, that is, take 
off the last 2 stitches of each row together. Do 
this for 3 inches. Then for 5 rows narrow one 
stitch on the front edge, and at the under-arm 
seam take off the third and fourth stitches together 
and the last two together. Knit 12 rows, narrow- 
ing 1 stitch on the front and 1 on the under-arm 
seam, then 5 rows, narrowing 1 on the front and 
2 on the under-arm as in the 5 rows just mentioned 
above. Now knit straight on the front and nar- 
row one on the back for 10 rows. Narrow one on 
the front and one on the back for 5 rows. Bind 
off rather tightly, but not enough so as to draw 
the knitting. This completes the knitting of one 
side of the vest. Take the other 33 stitches, and 
knit the other side to correspond. 

In finishing off the vest it is well to note the 
measurements, as care should be taken not to 
stretch the edges. The armholes should measure 
16 inches each, neck measure 28 inches, front edge 
9 inches, length of under-arm seam 8 inches. 
Probably these measurements would vary with 
different knitters, but they will serve as a guide to 
the proportions. It is well to overcast the arm- 
holes with the yarn before binding them. Work 



25 



in the white stars with an ordinary needle, making 
a single cross stitch with a little short stitch to hold 
it in place. Run the silk lightly on the wrong side 
of the knitting from star to star, working always 
up and down, never crosswise, as it will prevent 
the knitting from giving and shaping to the figure. 
The silk for the front facing should be bias to 
admit its yielding with the knitting, and should be 




Lady's Knitted and Embroidered Vest 

wide enough to extend beyond the buttons, to act 
as a stay. Bind the fronts, neck, and armholes 
with narrow ribbon. Knit a narrow band of garter 
stitch, casting on about 12 stitches, making it 11 
inches long. Overhand this on to the bottom edge 
of the back, and turn up to form a facing to keep 
it from stretching unduly. To make the button- 
holes, mark the places with a line of basting thread 
the size of the buttonhole. Stitch with the sewing 
machine on each side of the thread two rows of 
stitching close together to hold the knitted threads, 
cut between this stitching, and work the button- 
hole. 



LADY'S GOLF STOCKING WITH 
STRAP FOOT 

Materials. — Six ounces Spanish knitting yarn, dark mixture or 
plain color for leg. Two ounces Spanish light or bright con- 
trasting mixture, or plain color for figured top. Five No. 
14 steel knitting needles. 

Intended to be worn over ordinary stocking. 



Avoids the disagreeable feature of the woolen foot. 

Commence with 96 stitches on four needles, or 
24 on each. Knit with dark colored yarn twelve 
times around. Knit 1, purl 1, repeat. Then com- 
mence the figure. 

1st row. — One stitch dark, 1 light, 1 dark, then 
13 light, and repeat to end of row. 

2d row. — Two light, 1 dark, 11 light, 1 dark, 3 
light, 1 dark, and repeat to end of row. 

$d row. — Three light, 1 dark, 9 light, 1 dark, 5 
light, 1 dark, and repeat to end of row. 

4th row. — Four light, 1 dark, 7 light, 1 dark, 7 
light, 1 dark, and repeat to end of row. 

$th rozv. — Five light, 1 dark, 5 light, 1 dark, 9 
light, 1 dark, and repeat to end of row. 

6th rote. — Six light, 1 dark, 3 light, 1 dark, II 
light, 1 dark, and repeat to end of row. 

ytli rozv. — Seven light, 1 dark, 1 light, 1 dark, 13 
light, 1 dark. 

8th row. — One dark, 13 light, 1 dark, 1 light, 1 
dark, 7 light, and repeat to end of row. 

gth row. — One dark, 11 light, 1 dark, 3 light, 1 
dark, 6 light, and repeat to end of row. 

10th rozv. — One dark, 9 light, 1 dark, 5 light, 1 
dark, 5 light, and repeat to end of row. 

nth rozv. — One dark, 7 light, 1 dark, 7 light, 1 
dark, 4 light, and repeat to end of row. 

12th rozv. — One dark, 5 light, 1 dark, 9 light, I 
dark, 3 light, and repeat to end of row. 

13th rozv. — One dark, 3 light, 1 dark, 11 light, I 
dark, 2 light, and repeat to end of row. 

I4t!i rozv. — Thirteen light, 1 dark, 1 light, 1 dark, 
and repeat to end of row. 

Repeat from 1st row to 14th row. This com- 
pletes the pattern. 

Knit 12 rounds with dark as follows: Knit 1, 
purl 1, and repeat. Turn the work, and knit 3, purl 
1. and repeat for 5 1-2 inches. Now decrease 3 
stitches in centre of back, knit 1 1-2 inches, and 
decrease 3 stitches on same needle. Knit 4 inches, 
and again decrease 3 stitches ; knit 2 3-4 inches, 
and again decrease 3 stitches, and knit 1 inch. 
Divide the stitches, and with one-half knit a row 
and purl a row alternately, narrowing once at each 
end of needle each plain row, until 10 stitches re- 
main. Make the other half the same, and close the 
work, binding off the stitches together. 

SHOULDER SCARF 

The model scarf is knitted of Shetland floss in 
blue and white. Cast on 91 stitches with a thread 
of each color. 

1st rozv. — Knit plain across. 

2d rozv. — Narrow. 

3d row. — Knit plain across, taking up and narrow- 



26 



ing st between, thus making the 
same number of stitches (91) in 
first row. This makes the tufted 
stitch. 

4th row. — Same as 1st row. 

$th row. — Seam across. 

6th roiv. — Same as 2d row. 

yth row. — Same as 3d row. 

8th row. - — Seam with two 
threads of white. 

gth row. — Knit plain. 

10th row. — Seam. 

nth row. — Knit plain. 

12th row. — Seam. 

13^/1 row. — Knit plain. 

14th row. — Seam. 

15^ row. — Knit plain. 

16th rozi.'. — Seam. 

ijth row. — Blue and white. 
Same as 1st row. Continue as 
above, making three rows of 
tufted stitch. Then three rows 
white, two rows tufted stitch in blue and white, 
which completes the border. 

The body of the scarf has 32 rows of tufted stitch 
in blue and white. Then repeat the border. The 
ends of the scarf are finished with seven rows of 
knot-stitch in crochet in blue and white. 

The sides of the scarf are finished with crochet 
shells of 4 d c with si st between. 



BAG 

With fine twine or coarse cotton and medium 
sized needles, cast on enough stitches to make the 
bag the size desired, and add 12 more stitches for 
the edge. 

1st row. — Knit 2 ; * o, n ; * repeat between stars 
until 12 stitches are left; then k 3, o twice, n, o 
twice, n, k 5. 

2d row. — Knit 7, p 1, k 2, p 1, knit plain to end. 

2,d row. — Knit plain. 

4th row. — Knit 14; * o, n, * and repeat between 
stars to end. 

$th row. — Knit plain until 14 stitches are left, 
then k 3, o twice, n, o twice, n, o twice, n, k 5. 

6th row.- — Knit 7, p 1, k 2, p 1, k 2, p 1, k 3 ; k 
rest plain. 

yth row. — Knit 2 ; * o, n, * and repeat between 
stars until 17 stitches remain; k rest plain. 

8th row. — Slip and bind 5 ; k plain to end. 

This completes one point of the edging. Repeat 
until the strip is long enough for the bag, and cro- 
chet it together across the lower edge and up the 
side. If preferred, two pieces may be knitted and 
crocheted together to form the bag. Run a cord 
in the row of holes nearest the beginning of the 
edging for a drawing string. 



!ajK>B»jm.tax3Ji.i!i 



■ *-?-*.-af.-».-*.-Sf*.-*riv*.> 

., „. ... >'j*-*.-.>a#-a>rtS r .vj'A< r y r j,. ¥ 






2*-*k lCX>» 



Shoulder Scarf 



LADY'S CAPE IN KNITTING 
AND CROCHET 

Materials. — Five skeins Chinchilla Shetland floss, one skein 
white floss, one fine bone crochet-hook, one pair small bone 
knitting-needles. 

Yoke in Crochet. — Begin at the lower edge of 
yoke. Make 228 chain with chinchilla wool. Turn, 
make a row of star-stitch with five stitches for a 
star, make 122 stars on the chain. Turn, 2 ch, make 
double crochet (two stitches in each star, except- 
ing where you narrow every sixth stitch) across 
the row. To narrow place 1 d c in every sixth 
star instead of 2 d c. Turn, 2 ch, make another 
row of stars across the row. Turn, with white 
wool make d c across the row, narrowing every 
sixth stitch. 

Four stripes of the chinchilla, three rows in a 
stripe, and four rows of white d c, one between 
each stripe of chinchilla, make the yoke. The nar- 
rowing must be done every time in the d c rows. 
There will be 77 d c on the last row ; break wool. 

With chinchilla wool make a row of holes for 
ribbon. Chain 5, fasten with long crochet in 4th 
stitch of preceding row, make chain of one, fasten 
in 4th stitch, continue across row, turn. Chain 10, 
fasten in 2d st with slip-stitch, chain 10, fasten in 
3d stitch, continue the same across row, turn. 
Make a row of loops the same, with white wool, 
turn ; make another of chinchilla. This makes a 
finish for the neck. Run inch-wide ribbon through 
the holes. 

The cape part is knitted on small size bone 
needles. For the tabs, with chinchilla wool, cast 
on 51 sts, knit plain. 

1st row.- — * Over, k 1, o, k 2, (k 3 together, k 2), 
repeat from * across the row. 



27 



2d row.- — Seam plain across row. 

2,d row. — Like first row. 

4th row. — Seam plain. 

$th row. — Like first row. 

6th row. — With white wool, k plain instead of 
seaming, across row. 

yth row. — Like first row with white wool. 

8th row. — With chinchilla wool, seam across. 

gth row. — With chinchilla wool, like first row. 

10th row. — With chinchilla wool, seam across 
row. 

nth row. — With chinchilla wool, like first row. 

\2th row. — With chinchilla wool, seam across 
row. 

l$th row. — With chinchilla wool, like first row. 

14th row. — With chinchilla wool, k plain instead 
of seaming across row. 

15^/1 row. — Like first row. 

16th row. — Seam across row. 

lyth row. — Like first row. 

18th row. — Seam across row. 

igth row. — With white wool k across. 

20th row. — With white wool, like first row. 

The white wool is put in the same way twelve 
times, with the 8th, 9th, 10th, nth, 12th, 13th, 14th, 
15th, 16th, 17th, and 18th rows in chinchilla between, 
then k across twice plain and bind off. 

The rest of the cape is knit in three pieces and 
joined together. Cast on 125 sts for each one; 
knit the same as the tabs, putting in the white eight 
times ; sew the three pieces together with the wool, 
sew the tabs to them for three and one-half inches 
from the top. Gather the cape at the top a little 
with the wool and fit it to the yoke, and sew fast. 













£ 


c 




£ 


F 




Lady's Cape in Knitting and Crochet 



It is better to try the yoke on the person and gather 
to fit the shoulders. Crochet a scallop of 5 d c 
from the neck down the front, 6 d c across the 
bottom, 5 on the side of tabs, and on the sides of 
cape, with 6 across the bottom. 

SLEEVELESS JACKET 

Use Germantown wool, and two bone or wooden 
needles the size of a slate pencil. 

Cast on 58 stitches. 

\st and 2d rows. — Knit plain. These two rows 
form a ridge or 
"purl." Knit 58 
of these ridges, n 
then cast on 58 
stitches more, 
making 116 on 
the needle. Knit 
58 ridges with 
the 116 stitches. 

Bind off 58 
stitches, taking Pattern of Sleeveless Jacket 
care not to draw 

the edge ; then knit 58 ridges with the remaining 58 
stitches. Bind off loosely. This makes a knitted 
piece shaped as shown in the diagram above. 

Join the edges A and B together, also those num- 
bered C and D, by sewing with some of the yarn, 
leaving the edges E and F loose for armholes. 

Crochet scallops around the jacket and armholes 
and fasten with buttons and loops or bow of rib- 
bon. 

LOOP KNITTING 

Pair of bone needles, No. n or 12 (any one ac- 
customed to working could easily use a coarser or 
finer pair), and four- fold Germantown zephyr, or or- 
dinary single zephyr. Cast on about 5 stitches for 
every inch required in width. 

1st row. — Plain knitting. 

2d row. — Put the needle in the first loop, * wind 
the wool twice around the needle and the points of 
two fingers ; now take the wool around the needle 
alone, and knit the three loops in as if it was an 
ordinary stitch ; put the needle in the next stitch, and 
repeat from * to the end of the row. 

2,d row. — Put the needle through the ordinary 
knitting stitch and the two extra loops that go with it, 
and knit them as if they were one stitch. * Put your 
needle through the next ordinary stitch and the two 
extra loops that are with it and knit them as one 
stitch ; repeat from * to end of row. 

Repeat the 2d and 3d rows as often as necessary. 
After you have done the third, or knitting-off row, 
it is well to pull the loops well out. By doing this 
each plain row the work is kept more even and is 
better to do. 



28 



Articles for Babies and Children 




CHILD'S SWEATER 

Explanation of Terms. — Bl, blue; wh. white. 

Materials. — Ten ounces three-ply wool, one skein of white or 
contrasting color, two long bone needles. No. 6 or 7. The 
model is worked in blue and white and fits a child of about 
eight years. 

For front cast on 70 stitches in bl. 

1 st rozv. — Knit 2, p 3. 

2d row. — Knit 3, p 2. Rib in these two rows 
for three inches. Knit plain for ten inches. Purl 
a row, knit a row, and purl a row. In the next 
knitted row commence pattern. Join the white 
wool and work the pattern stripe double, changing 
from one color to another as required. Be 




6 bl, 1 wh; repeat 

* 3 bl, 2 wh, 3 bl, I 
wh; repeat from *, 



Child's Sweater 

careful in changing colors to keep the stitches loose 
on the wrong side. 

1st row. — Knit 2 wh, 7 bl, 2 wh, 3 bl ; repeat. 

2d row. — Purl 1 wh, 1 bl, * 4 wh, 5 bl, 4 wh, 1 bl ; 
repeat from *, end 3 wh. 

3<i row.- — Knit wh over wh, bl over bl. 

4th row. — Purl 1 wh, * 1 bl, 3 wh, 3 bl, 1 wh, 3 
bl, 3 wh; repeat from *, end 2 wh only. 



$th row. — Knit 4 bl, * 1 wh, 1 bl, 1 wh, 5 bl, I 
wh, 5 bl ; repeat from *, end 1 wh, 1 LI. 

6tli rozv. — Purl 1 wh, * 1 bi, 1 wh, 6 bl, 1 wh, 2 
bl, 3 wh ; repeat from *, end 2 wh only. 

yth row. — Knit 3 wh, * 2 bl, 1 wh, 4 bl, 1 wh, 2 
bl, 4 wh ; repeat from *, end 1 wh only. 

8th row. — Purl 1 wh, * 3 bl, 4 wh; repeat from 
*, end 3 wh only. 

gth row. — Knit 2 wh, 3 bl, 1 wh, 4 bl, 1 wh, 3 bl; 
repeat. 

10th row. — Purl 2 bl, 1 wh, 
from *, end 4 bl. 

nth row. — Knit 3 bl, 1 wh, 
wh, 4 bl, 1 
end 1 bl. 

12th rozv. — Purl 1 wh, * 3 bl, 4 
wh ; repeat from *, end 3 wh 
only. 

i$th row. — Knit 3 bl, * 1 wh, 2 
bl, 4 wh, 2 bl, 1 wh, 4 bl ; repeat 
from *, end I bl only. 

14th rozv. — Purl 2 bl, * 1 wh, 2 bl, 

3 wh, 1 bl, 1 wh, 6 bl; repeat from 
*, end 4 bl only. 

15th rozv. — Knit 5 bl, 1 wh, 5 bl, 
1 wh, 1 bl, 1 wh; repeat. 

16th row. — Purl 1 bl, * 1 wh, 3 
bl, 3 wh, 1 bl, 3 wh, 3 bl ; repeat 
from *, end 2 bl only. 

17^/1 row. — Knit 1 bl, * 4 wh, 1 
bl, 4 wh, 5 bl; repeat from *, end 

4 bl only. 
18th row. — Purl wh over wh, bl 

over bl. 

igth rozv. — Knit 2 bl, * 2 wh, 3 
bl, 2 wh, 7 bl ; repeat from *, end 

5 bl only. Break off white; purl a 
row, knit a row ; and purl row 
in blue. Knit 10 rows. In the nth 
row, and with the pattern facing 
you, k 35, and for 12th row, turn, 
k 2 tog, knit to end. 

13^/1 row. — Knit 32, k 2 tog, turn. 

14//1 rozv. — Knit 2 tog, knit to end. 

Decrease thus, at the centre of the chest, for the 
neck opening until 22 stitches remain. On these 
k 8 rows for the first shoulder ; break off the wool 
at the side nearest the neck, leaving the 22 stitches 
on a spare needle. Work in the same manner for 
the other side of neck and second shoulder. After 



29 



the 8 rows work to inner side of neck and cast on 
26 for the back, and work straight on with the 22 
left for the first shoulder. There are now again 
70 stitches. Knit 8 inches, or, for a little girl, 3 
inches, and repeat the pattern. Finish with a rib 
of 2 p, 3 pi in the first row ; 3 p, 2 pi in the second. 
Repeat these 2 rows for 3 inches. Sew up the 
sweater to within 7 inches of the top of each shoul- 
der, leaving 14-inch armholes. 

For the sleeve, cast on, in blue, 42. Knit a row. 
Work a rib of 1 pi, 1 p for 5 rows ; knit a row, purl 
a row, and repeat these 2 rows. Work the pattern 
from 1st to 8th row. In the 9th, k 2 wh, 12 bl, 
and repeat. Break off white. Purl a row, knit a 
row, and purl a row in blue ; k 16 rows. Increase 
1 at the beginning of each of the next 2 rows ; k 2 
rows plain. Repeat these 4 rows. Increase 1 at 
the beginning of each of the next 2 rows ; work 4 
rows plain. Repeat the last 6 rows until there are 
64 stitches. Knit 6 or 8 rows, and, for the top of 
the sleeve, k 2 tog at the beginning of each row 
until 30 stitches remain. Cast off, sew up, and 
make a second sleeve to correspond. 

CHILD'S VEST 

This vest is made of the softest four-ply wool, 
with No. 10 needles, unless you knit quite tightly, 
when you may use No. 9. It is about ten and one- 
half inches in the half width, and somewhat longer. 

Begin at the lower edge of the front. Cast on 55 
stitches loosely. Knit one row. 

1st row of pattern. — Slip 1, knit 5, then * knit 
2, purl 2, and repeat from * till 9 are left. Then 
knit 2, purl 1. knit 5. 

Repeat this row till 10 inches are done. 

Work four plain rows all across. 

To Shape the Top. — 1st row. — Knit 27 stitches. 
Turn. 

2d rozv. — Cast off 4 stitches at the beginning of 
the return row. Knit plain to outer edge. 

2)d row. — Knit 23. Turn. 

4th rozv. — Cast off 3 stitches : knit the rest. Turn. 

Now work back and forth, casting off 3 at the 
beginning of every row which starts from the mid- 
dle, till you have about 11 stitches. 

Work 4 plain rows on n stitches. Then con- 
tinue working back and forth, but every time you 
come to the neck end of the row, knit 2 in the last 
stitch but one, till you have 14 stitches. Then work 
on back and forth, until you can count twelve full 
plain ribs from where the fancy part finished. 

Work the other side the same, then cast off all 
the stitches easily. 

Now work the back piece exactly as the front has 
been worked. 

When done, sew the sides and shoulders together, 
leaving nice armholes at the sides. 



Crochet first a row of holes round the top, then 
a small, quite plain picot over the holes. Run in 
ribbon or crochet cord. If the crochet cord is 










""■- 

Child's Vest 

used, a few strands of wool knotted in each end of 
the cord, after it is run in the holes, is a nice finish. 
Any one who cannot crochet can knit a very 
narrow finish, containing holes, which will serve 
as well as the crochet edge, for holding the draw- 
string. A crochet or knitted edge can be added 
round the sleeve holes if desired. Delicate color 
would make a pretty edge. 

CHILD'S STOCKINGS 

Materials. — Saxony or silk, with four steel needles to match 
material used. Two skeins of Saxony will be required. 

Cast on 28 stitches 10 a needle, 84 in all. 

1st round. — Knit 9, narrow, over, k 1, o twice, 
purl 2, k 1, o, k 1, o, slip and bind (s and b), k 9, 
P 2. 

2.d round. — Knit 8, n, k 3, p 2, k 3, s and b, k 8, 
p 2. 

2,d lound. — Knit 7, n, k 1, o, k 1, o, k 1, p 2, k 1, 
o, k 1, o, k 1, s and b, k 7, p 2. 

4th round. — Knit 6, n, k 5, p 2, k 5, s and b, k 6, 
p 2. 

$th round. — Knit 5, n, k 2, o, k 1, o, k 2, p 2, k 2, 
o, k 1, o, k 2, s and b, k 5, p 2. 

6th round. — Knit 4, n, k 7, p 2, k 7, s and b, k 4, 
seam 2. 

jth round. — Knit 3, n, k 3, o, k 1, o, k 3, p 2, k 
3, o, k 1, o, k 3, s and b, k 3, p 2. 



30 



8th round. — Knit 2, n, k 9, p 2, k 9, s and b, k 2, 
P 2. 

gth round. — Knit 1. n, k 4, o, k 1, o, k 4. p 2, k 4, 
o, k 1, o, k 4, s and b, p 2. 

10th round. — Narrow, k 11, p 2, k 11, s and b, p 
2. Repeat from first round. 

The leg is narrowed down in the usual manner 
or, if preferred, it is left straight. When the leg 




Child's Stocking 

is the desired length, take 36 stitches for the heel. 
Knit heel one and one-half inches long, by knitting 
one (always slip first stitch of the row without knit- 
ting), purl one, alternate these 2 stitches clear 
across the needle, turn and knit across plain. Al- 
ternate these two rounds until heel is long enough, 
then divide in thirds and narrow two-thirds off. 
Knit two-thirds narrow, turn, k one-third, n. Con- 
tinue this way until all are off but two-thirds, then 
pick stitches up on both sides of heel and then knit 
the foot. 

Knit the instep like the leg which takes 28 
stitches, and have 2 purled stitches on each side. 
Narrow foot down on the side needles next to the 
2 purled stitches of middle needle so there will 



be only 20 stitches to a needle, 60 in all. When 
foot is long enough narrow alternately on the cor- 
ners of the needles; when all are off but two or 
three stitches to a needle, break yarn off, draw 
through stitches, and fasten. 

CHILD'S STOCKINGS 

Take any color of moderately coarse yarn wanted, 
and cast on 16 stitches to a needle. 

Knit four plain, four purl, for five rows, then 
change and knit four purl and four plain for five 
rounds, then change again every time five rounds 
are worked. Knit 13 rows of the squares, then be- 
gin the narrowing. 

Narrow off about 8 stitches to make it the right 
shape, by decreasing 1 
stitch each side of the 
,back, in the first row of 
the next four squares. 

Then divide the 
stitches, half the heel, 
and knit one round 
plain, the other, slip 
one, purl one, clear 
across. 

When the heel is 
about one and one-half 
inches long, divide in 
thirds, knit two-thirds, 
narrow, turn, knit one- 
third, narrow, continue 
until the heel is turned. 

Now pick up stitches 
on both sides of heel 
and knit instep down to 
toe like leg. 

The foot must be nar- 
rowed down to a few 
stitches less than 
stitches on leg, by de- 
creasing 1 stitch each 
side of the fancy pat- 
tern in every alternate 
row for 4 rows. 

When the foot is long enough, narrow first one 
corner then the other, until all are off, then draw 
yarn through and fasten on wrong side. 

If Saxony yarn is used, cast on 24 or 32 stitches 
to a needle. 

CHILD'S GAITERS 

Materials. — Two ounces of four-ply wool, 2 No. 10 needles, and 
one very short one pointed at each end for the cable. 

Cast on 46 stitches. Knit four plain rows. Knit 
2, p 2, for 12 rows (begin and end each row with k 
2 odd numbers, p 2 the even numbers). 

17th row. — Knit 6, p 2, cable (viz., si 3 sts onto the 




Child's Stocking 



31 



short needle, k the next 3 sts across the first 3 sts, k 
the 3 slipped sts), p 2, k the rest of the row. 

iStli row. — Knit 32 sts, p 6, k 8. 

igth row. — Knit 6 sts, p 2, k 6, p 2, k to end of row. 

20^/1 row. — Like 18th row. 

21st row. — Like 19th row. 

22d row. — Like 18th row. 

23c? row'. — Like 19th row. 

24th row. — Like 18th row. 

25th rozv. — Like 17th row, with cable. 

26th row. — Like the 18th row. Cable again on 33, 
41, 49, 57, 65. 73, 81, 89, 97, 
105, 113, 121, 129 rows. 

On the second row after 
cables 41, 49, 57, 65, increase 
after the second stitch at the 
commencement of the row, 
and before the second stitch 
at the end of the row. And on 
the second row after cables 
y^, 81, 89, 97, decrease at the 
same places. The total num- 
ber of stitches will then be 
46 (same as at start). 

After cable 129 knit one 
plain row. 

Knit six plain rows, in- 
creasing after the 10th st of 
the 1st and 2d rows, after the 
nth st of the 3d and 4th rows 
and after the 12th st of the 
5th and 6th rows. The total 
number of stitches is now 52. 

Knit 16, k 2 tog, k 16, k 2 
tog, turn. Knit 2 tog, k 14, 
k 2 tog, turn. Knit 2 tog, k 12, k 2 tog, turn. Knit 
2 tog, k 10, k 2 tog, turn. The stitches (44 in all) 
will now be in 3 groups, 12 in the middle and 16 at 
each side. 

Knit 12 rows on the middle 12 sts, then pick up 
the side stitches and knit six plain rows. 

Cast off. Join up the leg, and crochet a narrow 
edge round the bottom of the gaiter. Left leg re- 
verses the pattern of the right leg — viz. : 

lyth roiv. — Knit 30, p 2, cable, p 2, k 6, etc. 



ORANGE PINCUSHION 

Fine orange-colored Saxony and four fine 
needles are used for this pincushion. 

Cast 48 stitches on each of three needles, k 1 
and p 1 for 40 rounds ; then bind off, gather up 
each end and stuff the orange with cotton, and 
fasten securely. 

Sew a bunch of loops of narrow green ribbon, 
with a loop made of cord, to the top. 




Child's Gaiter 



CHILD'S LEGGINGS 

Materials. — Two skeins Germantown, two small bone needles. 

Cast on 50 stitches and knit back and forth, knit- 
ting 2 and purling 2 for fifteen rows to form the 
ribbing. Then k eight plain 
rows. Knit 33 stitches, take 
the 17 on the left on a sepa- 
rate needle or a safety pin. 
Turn and k back 16 stitches. 
Take the 17 on the right on 
another safety pin. Knit 
back and forth with the 16 
stitches left on the needle, 
and at the end of each row 
take one of the stitches 
from the 17 on the side 
needles, until all the 50 
stitches are back on one 
needle. Knit two plain 
rows, then begin the twists 
thus: Knit n, take off 3 on 
a hairpin, k the next 3, then 
the 3 on the pin to form a 
twist, k 5, twist, k 5, twist, 
k 11. 

Next rozv. — Knit n, purl 
6, k 5, p 6, k 5, p 6, k 11. 

Next row. — Knit across, 
plain. 

Alternate these two rows 
and twist every sixth row 
until 14 twists are made. In 
the last five twist rows nar- 
row a stitch at each end of 
the needle, thus leaving 40 
stitches. Knit 26, take the 

remaining 14 on a safety pin, k back 12, take off the 
remaining 14. Knit the 12 back and forth, making 
the twist same as in the leg until three more twists 
are made. In last two rows narrow a stitch at each 
end of needle. Take up 8 on the left side of instep, 
then the 14 at the left, turn and k back, taking up 8 
on the right side of the instep and the 14 at the 
right. Knit eight rows and bind off. Sew up the 
back of the leg. 

CHILD'S MITTENS 

Materials. — Two ounces white two-ply wool ; i ball pink knit- 
ting silk; 4 needles No. 17, and 4 No. 14; 34 yard white satin 
ribbon. 

With the No. 17 needles, cast on with wool 70 
stitches. Knit a round, 23 stitches on each of 2 
needles, 24 on the 3d; k 3 rounds plain. 

4th round. — * Wool forward, si 1, k 1; repeat 
from *. 

5//J round. — With silk. Bring the silk to the 
front of the needle, p the 2 st tog, lying one over 
the other ; * si the next as if for purling, silk round 




Child's Legging 



32 



the needle to the front again, p the next 2 tog; re- 
peat from *. At the end of the round take up the 
wool, pass the silk to the back above the wool. 

6th round. — With wool. * Forward, si the next 
stitch as if for purling, k 2 tog; repeat from *. Knit 
these 2 rounds alternately for 5 inches, measuring 
from the 4th round. 

You will notice that on one side the rib is in silk, 
on the other in wool. Keep the silk side next you. 
Knit a round in wool of k 1, k 2 tog, alternately. 
Take up the foundation row inside the needles, and 
k the 1st st of the foundation with the 1st st on the 
needles, then the 2d, and so on until all are knitted 
up. 

The Insertion for the Wrist. — Purl a round 
with wool. Purl 2 rounds with silk. 
4th round. — Knit plain with wool. 
$th round. — Wool, * k 2, wool forward, k 2 tog; 
repeat from *. Knit 2 rounds with wool. 
8th and gth rounds. — Purl with silk. 
io/.'i round. — Purl with wool. 
The Hand. — Use No. 14 needles, the remainder 
of the mitten knit with 
wool. 

1st round. — *Knit 2 tog, k 
5 ; repeat from * 9 more 
times, reducing the stitches to 
60. 

2d round. — Knit 1, p 1. 
jd round. — Knit 1, p I, al- 
ternately. 

4th round. — Plain. 
$th round. — Purl 1, k 1, al- 
ternately. 

6th round. — Plain. Repeat 
these 4 rows 3 more times. 

Take off the first 18 stitches 
by running a thread through 
them for the thumb. With 
the remaining 48 stitches knit 
24 rounds of the pattern. 
25th round. — * Knit 1, k 2 tog; repeat from *. 
26th round. — Knit 1, pi, alternately. 
2jth round. — Knit 2 tog, knit 1. 
28th round. — Plain. Run the yarn through the 
remaining stitches and fasten securely on the 
wrong side. 

The Thumb. — Run the 18 stitches on the needles 
and take an extra stitch at hand. Knit 14 rounds 
of the pattern. 

i$th round. — Knit 2 tog 9 times. 
16th round.—* Knit 2 tog, k 1 ; repeat from *. 
Fasten the remaining stitches as in the hand. Run 
the ribbon through the row of holes at the wrist. 

BOY'S MITTENS 

Two colors of yarn are required for this mitten, 
with four steel needles to match. The size of yarn 




Child's Mitten 



governs the size of the mittens. Take any two 
colors preferred and cast on 18 stitches to a needle. 
Knit wrist black 2 inches long, by first knitting 2 
plain, purl 1, and so on the entire round or wrist. 
Then take red yarn and commence knitting 
double, widening stitches up to 20 to a needle on 
first round. 

1st round. — Knit 4 red, 1 black, all around. 

2d round. — Knit 3 red, 2 black, all around. 

3c? round. — Knit 2 red, 3 black, all around. 

4th round. — Knit 1 red, 4 black, all around. 

$th round. — Knit black the entire round; repeat 
from first 
round. 

Widen for 
thumb in mid- 
dle of needle, 
about 20 or 24 
stitches and 
knit 1 red, 1 
black, in 
stripes. O n 
black round of 
mitten, when 
knitting 
thumb stitches, 
k black stitch 
and slip red 
one without 
knitting. Take 
widened 
stitches off on 
twine and cast 
on 6 stitches, 
which must all 
b e narrowed 
off later. Knit 
thumb in 
stripes 
and when long 

enough narrow, first on one corner and then on the 
other, until all are off but two or three. Break yarn 
off, draw thread through the remaining stitches, and 
fasten on wrong side. When the hand is long enough, 
narrow, first on one corner then on the other, till 
all are off but two or three to each needle. Break 
off yarn, draw through stitches, and fasten on 
wrong side. 

CHILD'S DUTCH BONNET 

Materials. — One ounce of four-ply white wool, 4 No. 10 bone 
needles. 

Cast on 144 stitches. Knit 2, p 2, for 2 inches. 
1st row. — Knit 2 tog all the way. 
2d row. — Purl ; no decrease. 

3d row. — Bring wool forward and k 2 tog all the 
way, to form holes for running-string. 
4th row. — * Knit throughout. 




Boy's Mitten 



33 



$th row. — Purl throughout. Continue from * for 
51-4 inches, then — 

Decrease for Gusset. — Thus — 

1st row. — Knit 20, k 2 tog, k 27, k 2 tog, k 19, k 
2 tog. 

2d row. — Purl ; no decrease. 




Child's Dutch Bonnet 

3d row. — Knit 20, k 2 tog, k 25, k 2 tog, k 20. 

4th row. — Purl ; no decrease. 

$th row.- — Knit 20, k 2 tog, k 23, k 2 tog, k 20. 

6th row. — Purl ; no decrease. 

/th row. — Knit 20, k 2 tog, k 21, k 2 tog, k 20. 

Stli roiv. — Purl ; no decrease. 

Gusset. — 1st rozv. — Knit 41, k 2 tog, turn round 
leaving the 21 stitches on the needle and use tht 
third needle. 

2d rozv. — Purl 21, p 2 tog, turn round, leaving 21 
on the needle, and use the fourth needle to finish 
the gusset. Continue knitting on the middle needle, 
at the end of each row, knitting 2 tog from the side 
needles until 22 stitches remain at the front of the 
bonnet. Take up stitches to the left corner of the 



bonnet — to the ribbed portion — turn, knit back, 
taking up stitches on the right side to the corner. 
There will now be 84 stitches on the needle. 

Knit 2, p 2, for 1 3-4 inches, viz., 20 rows. Cast 
off. 

Making Up. — Turn back the ribbed piece round 
the face, and put in some quilled Valenciennes and 
a little ribbon bow on the top. Run some ribbon 
through the holes for strings. This bonnet is also 
pretty made of silk. 

BABY'S HOOD 

Materials. — Seven to nine fifteen-cent balls of Angora wool, ac- 
cording to the size of hood; 1 yard of swan's-down edging; 
^ 1 J6 yards ribbon about i'/ 2 inches wide; z bone needles, No. 
8 or 9, according to whether the knitter works tightly or 
loosely, ordinarily No. 9 will be best; and enough rather 
thin, soft lining silk to line the bonnet. 

Cast on easily 70 stitches, and knit back and 
forth, always slipping the first stitch, for about 50 
rows, or until the width of the knitted piece is one- 
half the length without stretching at all- 
Then cast off easily and smoothly, neither too 
tightly nor too loosely, fold the work so that the 
cast-off edge is in half ; and the two short ends of 
the work lie together. Now sew up the back along 
the cast-off edge, very smoothly, to within about 
an inch and a half of the top ; an inch and a half 
as the work is folded will give 3 inches of a 
round, if opened. Gather this 3 inches by one 




Baby's Hood 

or two strands of wool as needful, and draw it up,, 
sewing it smoothly and evenly. 

Now run a thread along the front, drawing it 
up to about 15 inches (see note) or a nice fulness- 
to suit the child (which may be less than 15, 



34 



inches) ; put in the lining, neatly plaiting occasion- 
ally, and then trim it with swan's-down all round. 
In putting the swan's-down on, put the middle of 
the swan's-down to the middle of the front of the 
bonnet, so that whatever swan's-down is too long 
for this first making can be evenly laid with the 
two ends side by side at the back. It will be well, 
perhaps, to let a piece of silk go under the swan's- 
down at the neck ; it will make it a little firmer. 

It may be better at first to turn in a strip of the 
knitting in front and gather the bonnet on the 
turned edge, before the swan's-down is put in place. 
This full portion can then be let out with the extra 
swan's-down, when the bonnet is washed, if neces- 
sary, and the child has grown a little. 

Xote. — The reason for putting all the materials 
on the bonnet in the first instance is, that the child 
grows rapidly, and then everything needed to let 
out the bonnet is on hand, and all of the same color, 
not one bit looking new and the other new, perhaps, 
but of a slightly different shade which sometimes 
comes with washing, or wearing, etc. 

BABY'S JACKET 

Materials. — Four skeins of white and one skein of colored 
Saxony, and one lap of white split zephyr for scallop on 
border. 

With No. 10 steel knitting-needles and white 
Saxony, cast on 93 stitches for the back. 

1st row. — * Knit 3. purl 7, k 3, p 7, * repeat 
from * to end of needle. 

2d row. — * Purl 3, k 7, p 3, k 7, * repeat to end 
of needle. 

3d row. — * Knit 3, p 7, k 3, p 7, * repeat to end 
of needle. 




Baby's Jacket 

4th rozv. — Purl all the way across the needle. 
5th row. — Purl 5, * k 3, p 7, k 3, p 7, * repeat, 
p the last 5 at end of needle. 



6th row. — Knit 5, * p 3, k 7, p 3, k 7, * repeat 
to end of needle, knitting the last 5 sts. 

yth row. — Purl 5, * k 3, p 7, * repeat to end of 
needle, purling the last 5 sts. Knitting or purling 
the 5 sts on each end of needle changes the position 
of the blocks. 

8th rozv. — Purl across to end of needle. This 
finishes the second row of blocks. The entire sack 
is made in this way, repeating from the 1st row. 

Make 22 blocks for length of back. Make three 
rows of blocks for each shoulder of 23 sts each. 
Bind off the stitches between for the neck. Aft^r 
making the shoulders, cast on 20 sts toward the 
front, and continue the blocks the same length of 
the back. Bind off loosely. 

Sew the sack up 8 blocks from the bottom, leav- 
ing the border open. Take up 90 sts around the 
neck, including border. Knit 3 ridges in white on 
the wrong side, then make holes for ribbon by put- 
ting thread over needle four times, and knitting 
5 sts between, then knit 3 ridges more in white, 
dropping three of the over stitches, then put in 3 
ridges of color the same as the border on fronts. 
Make a scallop all around sack and collar with 
split zephyr and a fine crochet-hook. Fasten wool 
in 1st st of border, wool over hook, and make 2 
d c in same st, fasten with slip stitch in 4th st 
of border around corners, fasten in 3d st of bor- 
der. To give fulness where border is left open on 
sides, make 1 scallop on corner, 3 on the edges, 
and 1 in centre. This makes the sack set nicely 
over the skirts. 

Sleeves. — Cast on 24 stitches on the steel needle; 
begin the blocks the same as on sack; increase 2 
stitches every other row, each end, until there are 
90 stitches. Make 2 rows of blocks the same, then 
decrease 1 stitch each end until there are 78 
stitches on needle. Then knit 
in blocks until there are 13 
rows of blocks from the last 
decrease, then k 1 row plain, 
narrowing down to 50 
stitches. Make 9 ridges of 
white on wrong side, put in 
color three times same as on 
border of sack. Sew sleeve 
up and finish edge with scal- 
lop ; turn cuff over on right 
side, and sew sleeves in plain 
under arm, putting all ful- 
ness in 8 blocks across top of 
armhole. Run ribbon through 
holes in collar. This sack is 
large enough for a child two 
years old. 
Border. — With white Saxony take up 66 stitches 
down the front and all the stitches across the bot- 
tom of the front. Knit plain 4 rows or 2 ridges on 



35 



the right side, then put in the color and make I 
ridge on the right side. Continue the same until 
there are 3 ridges of color with 2 of white be- 
tween ; bind off with color. In knitting back on 
the wrong side each time, make a stitch in the 
corner. 

CHILD'S SKIRT 

Materials. — Six skeins of white Germantown, one pair of bone 
needles, No. 2, and a bone crochet-hook. 

The border is knit first. Cast on 20 stitches. 

\st round. — Knit 2, o twice, p 2 tog, k 6, o twice, 
p 2 tog, k 3, o twice, k 2 tog, o twice, k 2 tog, k 1. 

2d round. — Knit 3, p 1, k 2, p 1, k 3, o twice, p 2 
tog, p 6, o twice, p 2 tog, k 2. 

$d round. — Knit 2, o twice, p 2 tog, k 6, o twice, 
p 2 tog, k 5, o twice, k 2 tog, o twice, k 2 tog, k 1. 

4th round. — Knit 3, p 1, k 2, p 1, k 5, o twice, p 
2 tog, p 6, o twice, p 2 tog, k 2. 

$th round. — Knit 2, o twice, p 2 tog, k 6, o twice, 
p 2 tog, k 7, o twice, k 2 tog, o twice, k 2 tog, k 1. 

6th round. — Knit 3, p 1, k 2, p 1, k 7, o twice, p 2 
tog, p 6, o twice, p 2 tog, k 2. 

yth round. — Knit 2, o twice, p 2 tog, slip 3 of the 
6 stitches on a hairpin, k the last 3, then the first 




Child's Skirt 

3, thus forming a twist, o twice, p 2 tog, k 9, o twice, 
k 2 tog, o twice, k 2 tog, k 1. 

8//; round. — Knit 3, p 1, k 2, p 1, k 9, o twice, p 
2 tog, p 6, o twice, p 2 tog, k 2. 

gth round. — Knit 2, o twice, p 2 tog, k 6, o twice, p 
2 tog, k 16. 

10th round. — Cast off 8 stitches loosely, k 7, o 
twice, p 2 tog, p 6, o twice, p 2 tog, k 2. 

Repeat from the 1st round, forming the twist 
every 6th round going down, until the border is long 
enough for the bottom of the skirt. This one 
measures one and one-third yards. Cast off the 
stitches in the last round of the point. 



With the right side of the work next to you, take 
up stitches along the upper edge of the border. 
Knit back and forth plain for 72 rounds. In the 20th, 
40th and 60th rounds narrow every 15th stitch. 

Knit 2 inches of ribbing at the top by k 2, p 2. 
Bind off the stitches. 

With the hook crochet a row of holes at the top 
through which to run ribbon, by making t c with 2 
ch between in every 3d st. Crochet s c along the left 
of the placket, and a row of shells of 6 d c fastened 
by s c on the right side. Sew up the back below 
placket. 

This pattern may be used for any sized child's 
skirt, by adding to or decreasing the length of the 
border and depth. This one is large enough for a 
child four years of age. 

CHILD'S MITTENS 

Materials. — One and a half skeins of Saxony and four medium 
sized steel needles. 

Use the yarn double, as this makes a softer, 
warmer mitten than to use a coarse yarn single. 
Cast 16 stitches on each of 3 needles and rib 1 1-2 
inches by k 2, p 2. 
Knit 1 row plain, 
then begin widen- 
ing for the thumb 
and begin the pat- 
tern in the middle 
of the back. The 
pattern for the 
back takes 14 
stitches — 4 (al- 
ways knit plain) 
for each of the 
twisted stripes 
and 2 purl before, 
after, and be- 
tween the twists. 
Twist every 6th 
round by slipping 
off 2 of the plain 
stitches, k the last 
2 then the first 2. 
Have 6 stitches 
between the pat- 
tern for the back 

and the last widening for the thumb. Widen 
two stitches every 4th round for the thumb, in- 
creasing the number of stitches between the wi- 
denings by 2 each time. After 14 stitches have 
been widened on, knit a plain row, then slip the 
widened stitches on a thread for the thumb. Cast 
on 6 stitches, which are afterwards narrowed off 
1 at a time about every alternate round. Knit the 
pattern for about 2 inches before narrowing at end 
of the fingers. To narrow, decrease 1 st eacr 




Child's Mitten 



36 



side of the back pattern every alternate round for 
6 rounds, then every round for 10 rounds. In next 
round k each of the 2 purled stitches together and 
narrow each 4 sts to 2 sts, thus having 7 in the 
pattern and 8 on the other needles. Knit 2 together 
for 2 rounds and draw together the remaining 
stitches and fasten securely. Take up the stitches 
for the thumb with the 6 cast on stitches, making 
21 in all. Narrow off the 6 cast on stitches 2 at a 
time every alternate row, and finish the thumb the 
desired length, and narrow off. 

These mittens are equally suitable for a boy or 
a girl, and are really much warmer than the softest 
and warmest of gloves could be made, as the 
fingers can be kept close together. If intended for 
a boy use a dark yarn so that they will be serviceable. 
If for a girl they may match the hood, or the lining 
of the hood in color, or a narrow edge of the same 
color as the trimming of the hood may be crocheted 
around the wrist. 



BABY'S HOOD 

This hood takes 7 balls of Angora wool. Cast 

on 100 stitches (50 on each of 2 needles). Knit 

back and forth till the work is 3 inches wide. Add 




6 stitches to each needle to form the neck, k 8 rows 
more, and then commence to narrow, n every 8 
stitches, across the cap, k 8 rounds and n every 7 
stitches across and k 7 rounds, afterwards n with 
6 stitches and 6 rounds, and so on till it narrows to 
12 or 15 stitches. Break thread to about 10 inches. 
Thread a darning-needle and take off the stitches, 
after which sew up at the back. Crochet a small 
edge all around with knitting silk. 

BABY'S SACK 

The directions will be found easy to follow, and 
the finished garment very satisfactory. Two skeins 




Baby's Hood 



Baby's Sack 

of Saxony yarn are required to make a sack as 
illustrated, which measures seven inches across 
back. To make a larger sack add eight stitches 
for every extra inch desired. Use two steel needles 
of the largest size obtainable, or No. 1 bone needles. 
The sack is made in five pieces and then sewed to- 
gether in over-and-over stitch. 

To make the back, cast on 62 stitches. 

1st round. — Knit 3, * over, narrow, k 2, repeat 
from * to end of round, finishing with one instead 
of two stitches : repeat this round till there are 
forty-four rounds, then narrow off for shoulders 
thus : n 2 stitches at the beginning of each round 
till you have but 24 stitches left, cast these off on a 
safety-pin and lay the piece by. For a front, cast 
on 38 stitches, k same as the back for twenty-two 
rounds, cast off 10 stitches (this for the under part 
of arm-hole). Knit twenty rounds, narrow off 
shoulder as in back. To narrow off for neck, n 
4 stitches on front edge for two rounds, then n, 3 
stitches on third round, then n, 2 stitches on every 
round till there are but 2 stitches left and bind off 
(always remembering to narrow off at shoulder on 
every round also). 

For a sleeve cast on 38 stitches. Knit as before 
directed, narrow off one stitch at beginning and 
end of every tenth round, till there are but 40 



37 



stitches left, then make the wrist-band thus — * 
Knit 2, p 2, repeat * to end of round; in this way 
make nine rounds. 

loth round. — * Narrow, over twice, repeat * to 
end of round. 

nth round. — * Knit i, k the over twice as one 
stitch, repeat * to end of round. 

12th round. — Bind off loosely. Sew sleeves and 
sack up in over-and-over stitch. Take up stitches 
on right side of neck (there should be 20 stitches) 
take up the 24 stitches on pin, then the stitches on 
left front. Knit as you did the wrist-band, finish 
edge of sack with crochet shell. Seven d c stitch 
make a good shell. Make a shell over an open- 
work strip, fasten down in next open stripe (this 
for the lower edge of sack), make shells in rest of 
work to correspond. Finish by running ribbon 
through the openwork in neck and wrist. 

BABY'S JACKET 

Materials. — Three skeins of white and i of blue, threefold 
Saxony, a pair of No. 10 bone needles and 3 yards of No. 3 
ribbon. 

The ribs run up and down. Begin at the front 
by casting on 48 stitches. Knit across twice to form 
1 rib or row. For the body of jacket and sleeves, 
knit 2 needles or 1 row, then purl 2 needles or 1 row. 

Make 24 rows for the front, cast on 14 sts, k 12 
rows, bind off 24 sts, narrow 1 st each row at the 




Baby's Jacket 

arm for 6 rows, k for 4 rows without narrowing, then 
widen 1 st each row for 6 rows, making 38 sts on 
needle, cast on 24 sts, k 12 row r s, bind off 14 sts. 
This finishes one shoulder and arm-hole. 

Make 36 rows for the back and second shoulder, 



arm-hole and front same as the first. Bind off at 
the edge of the front. Sew the back and front 
shoulder pieces. 

For the yoke use the blue and take up stitches all 
around the lower yoke edge, knit back and forth 
plain for 10 ridges, narrowing at each of the four 
corners, by knitting 3 st together in each ridge. 
Make a row of holes at the neck by knitting 1 st 
* over twice, k 2 tog and repeat from *, ending 
with k 1. Knit next row plain, the "overtwice" 
making 1 st. Make 12 rows of ribbing by k 2, p 2, 
and bind off. 

For the sleeve cast on 33 stitches. Widen 1 st 
at top of the sleeve in every row, and 1 at bottom 
every 2d row until there are 70 stitches on the needle. 
Then knit 15 rows without widening. Narrow off 
to 33 sts, by narrowing 1 at top in each row and 1 
at bottom in every 2d row. Bind off. With the 
blue take up stitches at the lower edge, knit 2 rows 
plain, then a row of holes, then 2 plain rows, and 
finish with 11 rows of ribbing same as the neck. 

With the blue take up stitches along the lower 
edge of the jacket, knit 2 plain, then a row of holes, 
then 2 plain rows and 11 rows of ribbing same as 
the neck and sleeves. 

Run the ribbon through the holes, leaving ends 
to tie at the neck and lower edge, and tie in a bow 
on each sleeve. 

BABY'S SILK SOCKS 

Materials. — Use 1 ball of knitting silk or 1 skein of Saxony. 
Four fine needles. 

Cast 68 stitches on one needle. Knit across four 
times, having ridges all on one side. 

1st row. — Knit 3, tto, k 2, si and b, n, k 2, tto, k 1, 
tto, k 2, si and b, n, k 2, tto, k 1, tto, k 2, si and b, n, 
k 2, tto, k 1, tto, k 2, si and b, n, k 2, tto, k 1, tto, k 2, 
and repeat to end of the row ; at the end k 3. 

2d row. — Purl back. 

2,d row. — Knit 3, tto, k 2, si and b, n, k 2, tto, k 1, 
tto, k 2, si and b, n, k 2, tto, k 1, tto, k 2, si and b. 
and repeat to end of the row; p back. Knit the 
pattern until you have seven rows of holes. 
Knit four times across, having the ridges on 
right side. Knit the pattern again with seven 
rows of holes. Knit four times across, having 
the ridges on right side, and in this ridge n off 1 st 
at each end and you will have 66 sts. In knitting 
this pattern you begin and end with 2 sts, and only 
have six rows of holes. Knit 2, tto twice and n, 
k 2, tto twice and n, and repeat across the row, and 
p back ; this makes the holes for ribbon or cord and 
tassels. 

Knit across eight times, four plain and four purl, 
and narrow off a stitch at each end until you have 62 
stitches. 

Divide the stitches on three needles thus : 21 — 20 — 
21. With the needle having twenty stitches k across 



38 




£5^ 





Baby's Silk Sock 



pi and p back ; k 9 pi, tto and n, k 9 again ; p back ; 
k 8, tto, n, tto, n, k 8; p back; k 7, tto, n, tto, n, tto, n, 
k 7; p back; and repeat until you have 2 sts ; this 
makes half of diamond; then knit back to nine again. 

The diamond 
has eight 
holes each 
way. Knit 
back and 
forth plain un- 
til you have 
ten ridges ; cut 
thread. 

Begin at the 
right side of 
heel needle, k 
pi and take up 
2 sts at a time 
on right side 
until you have 
2,7 sts ; then 
take up the 10 
and you will 
have 47 sts. 
Tie ends of 
thread. 

Begin at the 
other side and knit the same. Then, be- 
ginning at right side, knit around, narrowing at 
each end of the toe needle (that is, the 2d and 3d 
and the 2 sts before the last), always on the right 
side, till you have 10 sts ; take 1 stitch from each side 
needle and put on toe needle and you will 
have 12 sts; then narrow at the beginning and 
end of heel on each side needle and each end 
of toe needle until you have only 1 st on toe 
needle ; fold together, and si and b off and sew up. 

I use No. 4 wooden lasts to shape the socks, as they 
make the work look smooth. Put the work on the last 
and fasten each point with a pin; if of silk roll in a 
wet cloth with a dry one over it and put away to dry. 
If of Saxony squeeze the sock in water and put on 
last with dry cloth over it and put away to dry. Use 
ribbon ties for silk socks and cord and tassels for 
Saxonv. 

BABY'S BOOTS 

Materials. — One and one-half crances two-ply white wool; ij4 
ounces two-ply blue; 4 needles, No. 16; 4 short needles, No. 14. 

On the No. 16 needles cast on 56 stitches with 
double wool, using each color. Close the round. 

1st round. — Purl with blue. 

2d round. — Purl with white. 

3d round. — Purl with blue. 

4th round. — -With white. * Wool forward, si 1, 
k 1, repeat from *. Always si the stitch as if for 
purling. 

$th round. — Take the blue wool, bring it to the 
front under the thread of white just used; * p tog 
the 2 stitches lying over each other, si the next, 




Baby's Boot 



wool round the needle to the front, repeat from *. 
At the end of the round pass the wool to the back 
and bring the white wool under it to the front. If 
you are not careful to do this you will have a hole. 

6th round. — Slip 1, * k tog, forward, si 1, repeat 
from *. Pass the blue under this wool to the front 
and repeat these 2 rounds until you have 60 rounds 
of blue and 60 of white. Count the blue rows on 
one side the knitting, the white on the other side. 
With the white wool knit 
a round of * k 1, k the 2 
tog, repeat from *. Purl 
.2 rounds with blue. See 
they are on the same side 
as the purl rows at the 
commencement. Knit a 
round with white. 

2d round of ivhite. — * 
Knit 2, forward, k 2 tog, 
repeat from *. 

3d round. — Knit plain. 
Purl 2 rounds with blue. 

Shoe in Double Knot 
Stitch. — This is a" novel 
variety of the brioche 
stitch and very effective. 
Knit in blue wool only 
with two needles, No. 14. 

1st rozv. — Take off the 
first 20 stitches on a thread. On the next 16 stitches 
* forward, si 1, k 1, repeat from * 7 times. Turn. 

2d rozv. — * Forward, si 1, k 2 tog, repeat from * 
7 times. 

3d rozv. — Wool to the front, * si the stitch as if 
for purling, p 2 tog, repeat from * 7 times. 

4th rozv. — * Slip the first, p the next (this is the 
si stitch of last row). Repeat from * to the end 
of the 16 stitches. Repeat these 4 rows 10 times. 
Then k 8 more rows, and in commencing each row 
decrease by knitting the si stitch with the double 
one. At the end of the 8 rows break off the wool. 
Put the first 20 stitches on a needle, also the last 
20. 

1st rozv of shoe. — * Forward, si 1, k 1, repeat 
from *. Take up 30 stitches on the side of the 
little rows, knit them up thus : * forward, take up a 
stitch, put your needle into the next and k the 
stitch, repeat from *. Knit the 8 stitches on the 
toe as before. Take up 30 stitches on the other 
side the shoe, then k the last 20 stitches in the 
same manner as the first 20 stitches. Mark the 
stitches at the corners of the toe. Knit the same 
4 rows of pattern and repeat them 7 times. 

2gth rozv. — Knit like the first row to the corner 
of the toe. decrease by knitting the si and the 
double stitch tog. Follow the pattern to the next 
corner (7 stitches), k the next 2 tog, k the re- 
mainder of the row as before. 



39 



$otli rozv. — Like the 2d row of pattern. De- 
crease again on each side the toe. 

$ist row. — Third row of pattern. Again de- 
crease on each side the toe. 

2,2d row. — Fourth row of pattern. Decrease 
again at the toe. 

33d row. — First row of pattern. Decrease in 
commencing and ending the row, and again on the 
toe. 

34/A rozv. — Second row of pattern. No decreas- 
ings. Repeat these 2 last rows 3 times, of course 
following the pattern, then a row of k 1, k together 
Ihe two lying over each other, cast off. Sew up 
the sole very carefully. On the foundation row, at 
the top of the leg, crochet 

The Border. 1st row with zvhite wool. — Hold 
the inside of the sock to face you and crochet with 
a fine hook on the third row of the leg, * 1 tr in 
the next stitch, 2 ch, 1 tr again in the same stitch, 
miss 2, repeat from *. Work the same on the 
foundation chain, holding the right or outside of 
leg next you. With blue wool work 1 d c between 
the 2 tr stitches, 5 tr over the ch stitch. Work this 
on each row. Run a ribbon in the row of holes 
above the shoe. 

BABY'S OVERDRAWERS 

Materials. — Two and one-quarter ounces four-ply wool, No. 13 
needles. 

Cast 131 stitches on two needles. 

ist row. — Plain. 

2d row. — Slip 1, k 2, p 1, k 1, p I, till two from 
end of needle, which 2 k pi. Repeat second row 
eight times. 

10th row. — Plain. 

11 tli rozv. — Put wool forward, k 2 tog. 

12th rozv. — Plain. 

Take four needles, knit plain, make two seam 
stitches, one at beginning of row, the other at ex- 
act division of stitches ; knit the last 3 stitches 
across the first 3 stitches, leaving 128 stitches on 
the four needles. Knit two rounds plain, increase 
1 stitch from each side of each seam stitch, in- 
crease every 9 rounds till you have increased 7 
times ; k 3 rounds, divide for the leg, take stitches 
from one seam stitch to the other, having 78 alto- 
gether. 

Take 2 tog every other row each side of 
first and last stitch in the round, inside the leg, 
till you have 36 stitches left; k 12 rounds plain, 
then k 1 round, thus ; put wool forward, take 2 
tog, k 6 rounds plain. 

The Foot. — Divide the stitches in half, starting 
from heel, si 8 middle ones on to extra needle, also 
last 14. Knit first 14, increase 18, knit backwards 
and forwards plain for 18 rows, decreasing at toe 
four times, then cast off. Pick up the 18 stitches 



which were made, knitting last stitch with first of 
the 8 reserve stitches. Knit backwards and for- 
wards plain, knitting in the 8 stitches, one by one, 
then knit in the last 14 stitches; knit plain for 18 
rows, decreasing at toe four times. Turn inside 
out, join together at heel, at bottom, and at toe. 
When the first foot is finished, the slipped-off 
stitches are taken on to the four needles and the 
second leg knitted exactly like the first, keeping the 
decreasings on the inside of the leg. 

BABY'S VEST 

Some workers find knitting on two needles is 
pleasanter than using four. Make a few rows of 
plain knitting at the waist and again at the neck 
to prevent the whole garment stretching too much. 
Cast 99 stitches on needles, No. 9, with very soft 
wool, rib by knitting 3 plain and 3 purl for 6 inches. 
Then k 8 rows of plain knitting; after those 8 
rows are done k again 3 plain, 3 purl, for 4 inches, 
then 8 plain rows and cast off. The other half of 
the vest is done in the same manner until the last 
row, when 6 stitches must be knitted with a third 
needle for one shoulder strap, each strap 2 inches 




Baby's Overdrawers with Feet 



in length, cast off the remainder until the last six, 
which are to be knitted for second shoulder strap. 
Join up each side and sew shoulder straps to the 
opposite width. Crochet an edge round the neck, 
thus, 3 d c, 2 ch in every third stitch; also round 



40 



sleeve. Make a cord by crocheting a chain of 
sufficient length to run in round the neck ; add tas- 
sels of wool made by cutting a few lengths of wool, 
tied in the centre and secured by 2 or 3 chain 

stitches. 

BABY'S SOCKS 

Materials. — Two ounces of twc-piy zephyr, one white, the other 
blue. Use needles suitable for the yarn. 

Cast on 80 stitches of white, 20 on one needle, 
and 30 on each of the other two. 
1st row. — Plain. 
2d row. — Over, k 3, si 1, n, pull si over the n, 




Baby's Sock 

k 3, o, k 1 ; this makes one stripe, and there must be 
eight with 10 sts in a stripe. 

Knit every other round plain. When there are 5 
rows of holes put in the blue ; k 1 round pi, p 3 rows. 
Break off thread and commence with the white and 
knit 18 rows of holes. Commence the front of the 
foot. After knitting the last needle, take 3 sts off of 
the next needle and knit backward like a heel. Have 
32 sts on the first needle. Always take off the first 
stitch, knitting back and forth. Next row take off 
1, si 1, n, pass si st over the n, k 3, o, k 1, o, k 3, 
continue as usual. The last 3 stitches of every al- 
ternate row must be si 1, n, k 1, and k till there are 
12 rows of holes. Begin now with the blue. Leave 
about 8 inches of end to sew up the heel. Com- 
mence at the heel ; k pi the first row, n once where 
it narrowed twice before. Pick up stitches like a 
heel, k 3, o, until all are picked up, k across the toe 
by narrowing once where narrowed before. Pick 
up stitches on the other side needle as on first, also 
knit the rest of the needle like the first. 

2d row. — Knit plain by throwing the knitting on 
the right side. 

3d row. — Purl. 



4th row. — Knit plain. 

$th row. — Knit plain. 

6th row. — Purl. 

yth row. — Knit plain. 

Now reverse the stripe. 

1st roiv. — Knit plain. 

2d rozu. — Purl. 

3d rozv. — Knit plain. 

This finishes the stripes. 

All the rest of the foot is knit back and forth 
(garter-stitch). Widen (make 2 sts of one) on 
each side needle at the corner by the toe, the 
last stitch on the right side needle and the first on 
the left side needle. Widen every other row till 
the foot is finished. After 18 crosses have been 
made, k 2, n, on right side needle, and n and k 2 
at the end of the left side needle. Narrow 4 times 
on each needle every other round. Now fold the 
sock on the wrong side and n together the sides. 
After the sides have been narrowed, fold the toe so 
that half the stitches will be on top and narrow as 
before. Sew up at the heel with the thread that is 
left. Make ties of twisted yarn with balls or tassels. 

BABY'S THUMBLESS MITTENS 

To knit these mittens use three-fold Saxony 
and four fine steel needles; cast on 12 stitches 
on first needle, 12 on second, and 16 on the 
third. Knit 2, purl 2, for an inch for the wrist; 




Baby's Thumbless Mitten 

in knitting the last row of the ribbing take up 
an extra stitch before each one of the purled 
ribs ; this makes little holes to run the ribbon in and 



41 



also increases the number of stitches on each 
needle. Knit two rows plain, then on the third row 
knit i, purl i ; this forms the pattern of the hand. 
Repeat the pattern ten times. In the eleventh pat- 
tern, narrow on the first stitch of the first needle 
and narrow again in the middle of the row by knit- 
ting together the 26th and 27th stitches. On the 
second row of plain knitting narrow just above the 
narrowing on the row below, then on the third row, 
knit 1, purl 1, being careful to continue the lines 
of the pattern; there is no narrowing on this row. 
Narrow in the same way on the two plain knitting 
rows of each pattern until there are but 36 stitches 
on the needles. Now knit plain knitting, narrow- 
ing every other stitch, until there are 10 stitches 
left on the needles. Break off the wool, leaving an 
end to finish, thread this end in worsted needle and 
draw through the remaining stitches, draw up and 
fasten. Put a bow of baby ribbon at the wrist. 

BABY'S OVERSOCKS 

This little sock can be made of either fine or 
coarse yarn, coarse being preferred. It is in plain 
knitting and purling, and requires four steel 




Baby's Oversock 

needles to match the yarn. Cast 20 stitches on 
each of three needles. 

1st row. — Knit 5 rounds of 2 plain, 2 purl, then 
5 plain rounds, then purl one round, and knit one 
plain alternately for 5 rounds. Repeat the 5 plain 
rounds and the 5 of plain and purling alternating 
until the leg is the required length ; then take half 



of the stitches for the heel and knit like the leg 
for one and one-half inches ; divide into thirds and 
narrow off, knit two-thirds of stitches on one of 
the purl rows, narrow, turn, knit one-third, nar- 
now, knit this way until all are off but one-third. 
Pick stitches up on both sides of the heel and knit 
foot like the leg. When it is long enough narrow 
first on one corner of the needle, then on the other, 
until all are off but two or three stitches; break 
yarn and fasten on the wrong side. 

This sock is to slip over shoes when baby is 
large enough to walk out in cold weather. 

BABY'S VEIL 

Materials. — One-half ounce Shetland wool. 

Cast on 170 stitches (the border pattern takes a 
number of stitches that can be divided by seven and 
two over for the edge). 

1st row. — Knit 2 tog, k 2, pass the wool twice 
round the needle, * k 2, si 2, k 1, pull the 2 slipped 
stitches over the knitted one, k 2, pass the wool 
twice round the needle ; repeat from * ; end with 
k 2, k 2 tog. 

2d row. — Purl 3, * pass the wool twice round the 
needle, p the double stitch as one, p 5 *; repeat 
from *. 

3d row. — Same as 1st, except that the double 
stitch made by passing the wool twice round the 
needle is treated as one stitch. 

4th row. — Same as 2d. Continue this border for 
an inch and a half, then begin the cable pattern. 

1 st row. — Knit 3, make 3 in one stitch, * k 3, 
take 3 tog, k 2, make 3 * ; repeat from *. 

2d row. — Purl back. 

3d row. — Knit 2, * k 2 tog, si 1, k 1, pull slipped 
stitch over the knitted one, k 3. (To be sure that 
your work is straight, see that the centre one of 
these three is about the 3 tog of the border pat- 
tern.) Repeat from *. 

4th row. — Purl back. 

5//1 row. — Knit 1, * si 2 on to an extra needle, 
leave these hanging, k the next 2, then k the ones 
on the extra needle, put the wool forward, k I, put 
the wool forward and repeat from *. 

Repeat from the 2d row till you have done the 
cable pattern three times, then alternately p and 
k 6 rows before beginning the lace pattern. This 
pattern requires 6 stitches and 1 over, so it is bet- 
ter to count your stitches and increase if required 
till you have 169 stitches. (Begin purl way to 
keep your pattern right side out.) 

1st row. — Purl 2 tog, * wool round the needle, p 
3, wool round, p 3 tog *, repeat from *, ending with 
wool round, p 3, wool round, p 2 tog. 

2d row. — * Knit 1, k 2 tog, wool forward, k 1, 
wool forward, k 2 tog *, ending with k I. 



42 




Baby's Veil 

3d row. — * Purl 1, wool round, p 2 tog, p 1, p 2 
tog, wool round, repeat *, ending with p 1. 

4th row. — Knit 2, * wool forward, k 3 tog, wool 
forward, k 3, repeat *, ending with wool forward, 
k 3 tog, wool forward, k 2. 

$th row. — Purl. 

6th row. — Knit 2 tog, * k 1, wool forward, k r, 
wool forward, k 1, k 3 tog, repeat *, ending with 
k 1, wool forward, k 1, wool forward, k 1, k 2 tog. 

Repeat these 6 rows till you have knitted 10 
inches, then alternately p and k 4 rows; k 1 row 
of 2 tog, put the wool forward, p back, k 6 more 
rows and cast off. This makes the holes to run 
the ribbon in. A section only of the veil is shown 
in the illustration. 



INFANT'S HOOD 

Materials. — Four-fold wool and a pair of knitting-needles, No. 
10 or 11, if for first size. No. 9. if for a medium or pretty 
full size, a small crochet-hook, sarcenet silk for front and 
lining, and 2 yards of full inch-wide satin ribbon to match 
wool. 

This hood can be made for a young baby, practi- 
cally its first hood, and also for a much larger baby. 
Different sized needles make the difference in size of 
the hood. 

The model is made in fawn, with a tiny pink 
border, white silk border and lining, and full inch- 
wide strings to match the hood. All cream white 
may be used. Some mothers prefer a colored hood 
for common wear. 



Cast on quite easily J2 stitches. 

ist rozu. — * Over, si i , n ; repeat from *. 

2d and all succeeding rows. — Like the ist. The 
work will come in pretty ribs; it is an old stitch 
called brioche. 

When you can count 24 full rows, begin the 
crown. Work as usual till you have done 15 sets 
or 45 sts, then o, si 1, take 3 tog; turn. 

2d row of crown. — * Over, si 1, take 2 tog, and 
repeat from * till you have done seven sets ; then 
o, si 1, take 3 tog. Repeat this second row till all 
the sts are worked off the two sides. Then cast off 
fairly snugly, but not so that the work will be 
hard to the baby's neck. You will probably find it 
best to cast off the two stitches which lie together 
as one stitch. 

Front. — Use the small hook, make a double with 
the main color, if you are using any; if not, make 
it in the cream, in the first stitch ; make 3 ch, not 
too tightly, take the needle out of the loop, take the 
other wool, or another ball of cream, whatever you 
have selected, and make a double next to the 
previous double, but at the back of the chain, to fasten 
on, and then make 3 chain and take out the hook; 
hold these 3 chain to the back, and then put 
the hook into the loop of the previous 3 chain, make 
a double in the next stitch of the bonnet; make 3 
chain, take out the hook, put it into the loop 
waiting at back, bring it in front of the 3 chain just 
made, put a double in the next loop, then make 3 
chain, take out the hook, put it into the loop of the 
3 chain which are waiting at the back, bring 




Infant's Hood 

them forward, make a double in the next stitch, 
make 3 chain and repeat from *. 

If at any time the border seems to be getting too 
full, a chain may be missed without being noticed. 

Back. — Leave the colored wool for a short time, 



43 



and work with the main color of the hood on the 
right side. Make 2 loose chain each about an eighth 
of an inch long; miss about 3 chain, 1 double in the 
next and repeat from * across the back. Then work 
in the same way back, but putting the double un- 
der the 2 chain of the hole below. Now work the 
twisted cord rather loosely if needed, across the 
back, and fasten off neatly. 

Lining. — Cut it quite full size, and straight across 
the front of the hood, and rather longer and wider 
than the hood seems to need. Then cut out a piece 
of silk to match the crown in shape, but quite full 
size. 

Run these two together, neatly on the wrong side, 
being careful to get middle of crown to middle of 
front piece. Fold and plait a small ruching of the 
silk for the front of the hood and sew it in place. 
Then sew the lining on wrong side at front over the 
stitches which sew in the ruching. turning it care- 
fully at corners, and plaiting it where needful. At 
the neck portion the lining is sewn on the right 
side of the lining. Many mothers put a small soft 
fold of silk over the lining at the base of crown 
and just turn it in, so that it prevents the wool part 
from coming near the child's neck at all. 

A piece of ribbon is run through the holes at the 
back of the neck and the strings at side have 
a little bunch of ribbon, softly put together just, and 
only just, above where they are sewn on, so as to 
avoid the ears, the string being caught in place 
at the corner of the hood at each side. 

Note. — If the chain cord at front is not wished, 
any little ruching or scallop will serve, but this cord 
is so firm, soft, and keeps it in place so well that it 
is recommended. 



INFANT'S SOCKS 

Materials. — Four small skeins of fourfold Zephyr, any color 
wished; the model was in fawn and pink, as it was not 
thought well to have these socks washed too often. If j 
colors are chosen, 2 skeins of each color will be needed. 
No. 13 needles were used for the model pair, which were 
nearly 8 l / 2 inches long from bottom of sole to top of sock. 
The foot part was nearly $'/i inches. If you knit very tightly 
it might be well to use No. 12 needles. 

With the pink cast on 36 stitches. 

1st row. — Knit 1, * p 2, k 2, and repeat from *, till 
one is left. Knit that stitch. 

2d row. — Purl 1, * k 2, p 2; repeat from *, p the 
last st. 

Repeat tnese two rows till 1 1-4 inches or about 
12 rows are done, then, on what you intend for the 
right side, work a plain row in fawn. 

Work three rows in ribbing to match the pink, 
but using the fawn wool, then work a plain row in 
pink, and repeat till you have done another pink 
and fawn division, then do 12 rows more of pink. 
You should have the wrong side to you, if not do 
another row so that the next row may be worked 
on the wrong: side. 



1st row. — Purl. 
2d roiv. — Knit. 
3d row. — Make 



holes for string: Knit 1, * 



o, 



n, p 1, and repeat from * till there are 2 left, o, n. 

4th row. — Knit. 

5th row. — Purl. Now break off the wool, leaving 
a good end and run 12 sts at each side on to a large 
safety-pin, and do the centre. 

Centre of Sock. — Hold the right side of the work 
toward you. 

1st row. — Knit 1, pi, for 12 sts. 

2d row. — The same as 1st. 

3d row. — Purl 1, k 1, for 12 sts. 

4th row. — The same as 3d. 

Repeat from the 1st row for one and a half inches. 
Finish so that the next row is worked on the right 
side. Break off the fancy wool. Now with the 
fawn wool, work on the 12 front sts in plain knitting 




Infant's Sock 

till you have eight ribs (not rows) done; break off, 
leaving a medium end. 

Now take up 12 sts at the right-hand side, 15 
along the flap, 7 along the side of the plain part, 
and 6 from the half on top, 40 in all for the half 
width. Take up 40 on the other side the same 
way. 

The above way of taking up stitches is given, but 
take up the 40 as preferred ; knit them on two 
needles, or put them on three, if preferred, and knit 
plain back and forth on the whole 80 stitches till 
you can count five full ribs. You better have 
them on two needles now ; 40 on each, as you now 
begin to narrow for toe. 

1st row of toe narrouing. — Knit to within 4 of 
the toe end, n, k 2. Knit 2 on the next needle, finish 



44 



the row as usual. Repeat this first row till you 
have in all, eight full ribs of the shoe portion. 

ist row of toe and heel narrowing. — Slip i, n, k 
till within 4 of end of needle, n, k 2; on the next 
needle k 2, n, then k till 3 are left, n, k 1. Repeat 
this heel and toe row three times more. Then cast 
off easily. Run all odd ends smoothly in with a 
darning or wool needle, so that there are no lumps 
or hard places, sew up the foot and back of shoe ; 
crochet a tiny scallop, if liked, around the top (this 
may be done before sewing up if preferred), add 
crochet or ribbon draw-string, and the shoe is 
finished. 

Note. — It is better when practicable to slip the 
first stitch, but where changing wools, etc., and it 
cannot be done, knit it in the usual way. For this 
reason it is not often mentioned as it depends 
largely on the pattern. It could usually be slipped 
in the leg part, and practically always in the shoe 
part. 



INFANT'S VEST 



Materials.- 
needles. 



-About 1 '/> ounces knitting-silk and two No. 1,5 



For the border and insertion cast on 26 stitches 
and knit one row plain. 

ist pattern rove. — Knit 2, silk over twice, p 2 tog; 
k 2, * silk over, k 2 tog, repeat from * twice more ; 
k 3, silk over twice, p 2 tog, k 2 ; * silk over twice, 
k 2 tog, repeat from * twice more, k 1 (there should 
now be. 29 stitches on the needle). 

2d row.- — Knit 3, p 1 ; k 2, p 1 ; k 2, p 1 ; k 2 ; silk 
over twice, p 2 tog, k 1 1 ; silk over twice, p 2 tog, 
knit 2 (29 stitches). 

2,d row. — Knit 2, silk over twice, p 2 tog, k 11; 
silk over twice, p 2 tog, k 12. 

4th row.- — Cast off 3, k 8, silk over twice, p 2 tog, 
k 2; * silk over, k 2 tog, repeat from * twice more, 
k 3; silk over twice, p 2 tog, k 2 (26 stitches). 

5th row.- — Knit 2, silk over twice, p 2 tog, k 11; 
silk over twice, p 2 tog, k 2 ; * silk over twice, k 2 
tog, repeat from * twice more, k 1 (29 stitches). 

6th row. — Knit 3, p 1, k 2, p 1, k 2, p 1, k 2 ; silk 
over twice, p 2 tog, k 1 1 ; silk over twice, p 2 tog, 
k 2 (29 stitches). 

-jth row. — Knit 2, silk over twice, p 2 tog, k 2 ; 
* silk over, k 2 tog, repeat from * twice more, k 3, 
silk over twice, p 2 tog, k 12 (29 stitches). 

8tli row. — Cast off 3, k 8, silk over twice, p 2 tog, 
k 11 ; silk over twice, p 2 tog, k 2 (26 stitches). 

gth rozv. — Knit 2, silk over twice, p 2 tog, k 11, 
silk over twice, p 2 tog, k 2 ; * silk over twice, k 
2 tog, repeat from * twice more, k 1 (29 stitches). 

10th row. — Knit 3, p 1, k 2, p 1, k 2, p 1, k 2, silk 
over twice, p 2 tog, k 2 ; * silk over, k 2 tog, repeat 
from * twice more, k 3, silk over twice, p 2 tog, k 2 
(29 stitches). 

nth rozv. — Knit 2, silk over twice, p 2 tog, k 11, 
silk over twice, p 2 tog, k 12 (29 stitches). 



12th rozv. — Cast off 3, k 8, silk over twice, p 2 
tog, k 11, silk over twice, p 2 tog, k 2 (26 stitches). 
Repeat from 1st pattern row, and continue to work 
thus for 24 inches for the neck of the vest, and 
work two more pieces, of 7 inches each, for the 
sleeves. 

INFANT'S SOCKS 

Materials. — One and one-half balls of knitting silk, fine knitting 
needles, and one yard of No. i pink ribbon. 

Cast on 54 stitches and k around pi. 
ist rozv. — (Seam 2, o, k 1, o, k 1, o, k 1, o, k 1) 
9 times. 

2d rozv. — (Seam 2, k 8) 9 times. 

3d row. — (Seam 2, k 2 tog, k 4, k 2 tog) 9 times. 

4th rozv. — (Seam 2, k 2 tog, k 2, k 2 tog) 9 times. 

$th row. — (Seam 2, k 4) 9 times. 

Repeat from the first row 18 times, which finishes 




Infant's Sock 

to the heel. Take 24 stitches, 4 of the groups of 
6. on one needle for the heel. Knit back and forth, 
seaming every other row, until you have 20 rows 
for the heel. Bind off the stitches and sew up the 
edge which comes at the bottom of the heel. Take 
up 30 stitches along the outer edge of the heel, 
these, with the t, 2 stitches already on the needles, 
making 62 stitches to start the foot. There are 
3 rows of the shellwork with the 2 seam stitches 
each side, which continue down the foot until you 



45 



begin to narrow off the toe. Place these 20 
stitches on a needle by themselves and the re- 
mainder equally on the other two needles. Knit 
round and round, making the fancy pattern on the 
one needle and the rest plain. On each side of the 
heel narrow off 2 stitches in every other row until 
you have narrowed off 8 on each side, forming a 
little gusset on each side, as shown in the illustra- 
tion. 

After narrowing the instep k pi until the foot is 
about 1 1-2 inches from last narrowing, then divide 
the stitches equally on the three needles, and finish 
to the toe by knitting plain, narrowing a stitch at 
the end of each needle in each row until they are 
all narrowed off. This sock may be made larger by 
taking more stitches at the beginning, any number 
divisible by six, and then making heel and foot to 
correspond. Run the ribbon in open spaces round 
the instep and tie in a small bow. 

INFANT'S BOOTEES 

Materials. — One skein of white and one of pink Saxony, and a 
pair of fine bone needles. 

Use the Saxony double. With the white cast on 
36 stitches and knit across plain. 




Infant's Bootee 



and 



2d row. — Knit 2, * over, k 2 together, 
repeat to end of row from the star. 

3d and 4th roivs. — Plain. Repeat these last three 
rows three times. This forms the fancy top. 

For the leg portion work thus : 

1st row. — Knit 5, p 6, k 4, p 6, k 4, p 6, k 5. 



2d row. — Purl 5, k 6, p 4, k 6, p 4, k 6, p 5. 

3d row. — Same as 1st row. 

4th row. — Purl 5, slip 3 of the 6 stitches off on 
a hairpin, then k the next 3, then the 3 on the pin 
to form a twist, p 4, twist, p 4, twist, p 5. Repeat 
the last 4 rows 3 times. Knit 2 tog, * o, k 2 tog, 
and repeat from * to end. Knit next row plain. 
Carry out the pattern for the next 3 rows. Then 
take off the first 12 stitches on to a safety-pin, con- 
tinue the pattern on the next 12, then slip the last 
12 on to a pin. 

Carry out the pattern on the middle 12 for 15 
rows. Then take up 10 stitches on the side, k the 
12 off the safety-pin, then k pi back to other side, 
take up 10 stitches and k the stitches off the other 
safety-pin. Knit back and forth pi for 14 rows, 
then 4 rows, narrowing a stitch at the end of the 
row and in the centre. Bind off the stitches and sew 
up at the back. Crochet a shell of 6 double crochet 
fastened by single crochet around the top. With 
the pink crochet around the scallop and down each 
row of holes by making a ch of 3 and joining by 
s c. Around the ankle run a twisted cord of pink 
and white with a small ball on each end. 

TOY REINS 

Materials. — Four ounces Germantown and two needles. 

For the breast piece cast on 13 stitches. Knit 
10 inches and cast off. For the reins cast on 9 
stitches and knit to the required length. Make the 
arm rings of rope covered with flannel, and sew 
the knitting on the rings edge to edge. Sew the 
rings on to the breast piece, and put 5 bells on the 
latter. 




Tov Reins 



46 



CHILD'S DUTCH HOOD 

Number 10 needles and soft fourfold Germantown 
wool were used in making this hood. About two full 
skeins or a trifle less were used in the knitting, and 
a small portion of colored wool, if desired, can be 
used for a tiny border. Thin white lining silk and a 
little chiffon ruching were used for the lining and the 
front, and about 2 yards of inch and a quarter wide 
satin ribbon were utilized for the running at back of 
neck, strings and tiny bow at top if wished. The 
color of the model was a soft gray, with blue border, 
but fawn with pink border, or all cream-white can be 
used; size about two years. 

Cast on 59 stitches easily. 1st rozv. — Slip I, knit 1, 
purl 2, * k 2, p 2, and repeat from * to end of row, 
which will end with an odd purled stitch ; this odd 
stitch causes the pattern. Repeat the 1st row for 18 
or 20 rows, or about 2y 2 inches, so as to get a pretty 
turn back. At the end of the last row, cast on 12 
more stitches, not too loosely, but not very tight. 
Work as usual till you reach the other end, when you 
cast on 12 more stitches ; there will be 83 in all. Con- 
tinue in the pattern ; it will be in the pattern, if you 
have done the work correctly. Continue till you have 
4^/2 inches from the place where you widened, ex- 
clusive of the flap. 

Crown. — Work as usual till you have 29 sts re- 
maining on left-hand needle ; purl 2 of those to- 
gether; leave 27 and turn. 2d row crown. — Knit 2, 
p 2, as usual till you have 29 left on the last needle ; 
p 2 together, turn. 3d row crown. — Knit 2, p 2, till 
you come to the last st of the centre ; p that last st 
with one from the side. Turn. Repeat 3d row till 
all the sts are taken from each side. Pick up 28 sts 
at the side, p back on them, p across the middle 27, 
and pick up as if for purling, or p as you pick them 
up, 28 sts on the second side ; 83 in all. 1st row. — 
You are working on what is the right side now; si 1, 
k 1, o, n, * k 2, o, n, and repeat from * till close to 
end of row; if a stitch is lacking, k 1, o, n, or man- 
age in any way it looks well. 2d rozv. — Slip 1, k 1, 
p 2, * k 2, p 2, and repeat from * on the 83 as before. 
Repeat this second row for 15 or 20 rows till the cape 
is as long as needed, or, if preferred, you can stop 
within half an inch of the desired length and k the 
half inch in plain knitting back and forth, always 
slipping the first st, or, when the cape is 2 inches 
long you can do the equal of 4 rows or 2 ribs in 
plain knitting; or even 5 rows, so that the next row 
must be worked on the right side as follows: si 1, k 
1, then k plain to the end of the row. Next Row. — 
Slip 1, k 1, p till two are left, k these two. Repeat 
these two rows for about an inch, then k about 6 
rows or 3 ribs, and cast off on the right side easily, 
so that it is elastic. 

If needful, it does not matter about having an 
extra row of plain knitting either before or after 



the commencement of the panel of plain knitting; 
just arrange it that the purled and plain panel is to 
the right side of the hood. 

Border. — Begin in the corner by the turn-back 
flap, holding the right side of the work to you and 
work round the lower part of the hood and cape 
first. Put a double crochet (d c) in the corner, * 
then 3 treble (tr) in next st but one, miss a st, 1 d c 
in next st. Repeat from *. Work this snugly along 
the side of face and end of cape, comfortably full 
at corners and snugly along the other end of cape 
and side of face. When done fasten off neatly, and 




Child's Dutch Hood 

draw in ends. Now turn the hood round so that the 
wrong side will be towards you, and work the same 
pattern round the Dutch flap, but so that the right 
side of work will be to right side of hood when flap 
is turned back in place. If preferred, the cape can 
be omitted and the tiny scallop worked as soon as 
the drawing-up holes are made. It is entirely a 
matter of preference, but for wool hoods which are 
mostly for warmth as well as prettiness, capes are 
good when the child runs about. In putting in the 
lining, cut it to the fullest stretching size of the hood 
and just put tiny plaits where needful to make it fit. 
By doing this the silk lining and outside also adjust 
themselves perfectly to .the head. 



47 



NOV 2C 1912 



BABY BOY'S CAP 

This cap takes about two ounces of wool for looped 
trimming and ear flaps, and less than an ounce for 
crown; No. 12 bone needles; it can all be in four- 
fold cream-white; or some pretty shade for brim 
and another for crown is excellent choice. A small 
amount of lining silk, a little thin muslin (an old 
handkerchief will do) , a little cotton wool, and about 
two yards of substantial satin ribbon, a little over an 
inch wide, for strings and bow on top of cap, will 
also be needed. For very dainty use, have the cream- 
white wool with satin strings to match. In the model 
there was a little soft chiffon niching round the hat 




Baby Boy's Cap 

in front, but a tiny plaiting of China silk is softer. 
The cap will fit a child from eighteen months to 

two years. 

Looped Trimming.— Cast on 11 stitches easily. 
1st row.— Put the needle in st, * and hold it there 
easily, then wind the wool easily round the needle 
and forefinger of left hand twice, bring the wool 
round the needle only the third time ; it comes that 
way naturally at the end of the second turn round the 
finger; knit all 3 loops; put the needle in the next 
st and repeat from * till the row is complete. 2d row. 
—Knit each bunch of sts as if it was one st. Pull the 
bunches down well when the row is finished. Repeat 
these two rows till you have half a yard in length. 



If you think well you can do the last row with three 
turns to each st, or even four instead of the two ; it 
fills up the join a little better, but is not imperative. 
Crown.— Use the wool intended for crown and 
cast on 21 sts. 1st row.— *Over, slip 1, narrow, and 
repeat from * to end of row. 2d row.—* Over, si 1, 
n, and repeat till three are left. Leave those three, 
which you notice make one set of sts unworked. 3d 
row.— Work back as usual to the outside end of row. 
4th row.—* Over, si 1, n, and repeat from * till 6 sts 
are left. Turn and work back as usual. Go on this 
way, leaving 3 sts more every time you come 
to the inner end of row, till you have but 3 sts left, 
work down and back again on these 3, which brings 
you to the outside edge of the row. Now work one 
whole row from outside to inside, and then work 
another whole row from inside to outside. When 
these two rows are done, begin again with 2d row 
and repeat till the crown is complete and lies flat, 
even, and round, neither full nor skimpy. Then cast 
off carefully, neither tightly nor loosely, leaving an 
end of wool, and sew the two edges together, making 
the rows fit one another; also draw the centre hole 
up by easily sewing through each st and then gather- 
ing up the sts and drawing the work together. All 
must lie flat. Not be tight nor drawn at all. Draw 
the ends of the looped trimming together and sew 
smoothly on wrong side. 

To join the crown and trimming, take the join of 
the crown and join of the trimming and lay them 
together, wrong side out ; pin, being careful to have 
all loops out of the way of the pin. Now find the 
other half of both crown and trimming, and pin 
them together in the same way ; then find the quar- 
ters, pin each of them, then the eights, pin each of 
them. Now you can sew smoothly together, and do 
not pull the sts too tight. 

Ear Flaps.— Cast on 6 sts. 1st row.— Loops in 
every st. 2d row. — Knit back. Repeat 1st and 2d 
rows twice more, fth row.— You begin to increase 
in this row, make loops as usual in the first st ; then 
pick up and knit a loop between the st just worked 
and the next, which you will k in the usual looped 
fashion. Knit each st as usual till only one is left; 
now pick up and k a st as before and work the last 
st as usual with loops. Knit back in the usual way, 
including the extra sts. This gives you two extra 
sts for next row. Repeat the 7th and 8th rows till 
you have 14 sts, and then work on the 14 sts till you 
can count 12 ribs in all on the wrong side, including 
the very first rib. Cast off in the same row that you 
knit off the 12th row of loops. This ends the knit- 
ting. Sew the ear pieces in place, line the cap, and 
add the ribbon strings and bow at top. 




48 




PRISCILLA LIBRARY 

Practical Instruction Books for Needleworkers 



Priscilla Irish Crochet Book, No. 1 — This book 
has all the stitches and fillings for Irish Crochet, to- 
gether with a large assortment of floral motifs. Full 
directions for working are given. Price, 25 cents 

Priscilla Irish Crochet Book, No. 2 — This second 
book on Irish Crochet supplements the first very 
nicely, and gives a large assortment of motifs and 
finished articles, with clear and full directions for 
working. Price, 25 cents 

Priscilla Bobbin Lace Book — The designs in this 
book take up the work from the beginning, all the 
tools and materials being fully described. Beautiful de- 
signs are given for Torchon, Cluny, Russian and Bruges 
laces, with full directions for working. Price, 25 cents 

Priscilla Cross Stitch Book — Has nearly two hundred 
working patterns for different articles for which cross- 
stitch is used. Many of them are suitable for bead- 
work. There are also six alphabets and directions for 
all kinds of canvas work. Price, 25 cents 

Priscilla Tatting Book — This book contains some 
of the best work that has appeared in The Modern 
Priscilla, as well as many new designs never before 
published. Full directions for the work are given and 
the designs include dress garnitures, collars, handker- 
chiefs, centrepieces, doilies, etc., with full directions 
for working. Price, 25 cents 

Priscilla Knitting Book — This is a most useful 
collection of patterns for knitting, consisting of arti- 
cles for men, women, and children. Articles in wool 
predominate and all are very attractive. 

Price, 25 cents 

Priscilla Battenberg and Point Lace Book — Here 
are practical, illustrated directions for making lace. 
Each step is taken up. Over one hundred stitches are 
shown, both simple and complicated. Price, 25 cents 

Priitilla China Painting Book — A 20-page book 
full of practical information for china painters. The 
colors most used are fully described, and specific direc- 
tions regarding the different methods of painting are 
given. This little book will be found invaluable to 
beginners in china painting. Price, 15 cents 

Mexican Carved Leather and English Raised 
Leather — This book gives full instructions for these 
most beautiful and popular forms of leather work. 
The book is handsomely illustrated. Price, 15 cents 



Priscilla Punched Work Book — The beautiful de- 
signs in this book include articles for personal wear, 
table pieces, bedspreads, curtains, bureau-covers, 
cushions, pillows, lamp-shades, etc. All the stitches are 
illustrated and full directions given. Price, 25 cents 

Priscilla Bead Work Book — This book gives direc- 
tions for making all kinds of bead-work and contains a 
large and attractive assortment of illustrated designs for 
bags, purses, card-cases, necklaces of all kinds, pend- 
ants, chains, girdles, hair ornaments, etc. The best 
book on bead-work. Price, 25 cents 

Priscilla Filet Crochet Book — This new book gives 
a wide variety of patterns in floral, conventional, and the 
quaint heraldic and mythological figures so characteristic 
of Filet lace. Many illustrations of finished work are 
given, showing the beautiful effects possible, and a 
multitude of designs are carried out in block effect so 
that they can be easily copied. All that one needs for 
this fascinating work is a spool of thread and a crochet 
hook. Price, 25 cents 

Priscilla Basketry Book — In this new Basketry Book 
have been included the best of the various articles on 
basketry that have appeared in The Modern Priscilla 
from time to time, and a variety of new material never 
before published. Price, 25 cents 

Priscilla Hardanger Book — In the opening chapters 
will be found the various foundation stitches and their 
many combinations. Following these will be found 
many attractive designs with details and copious descrip- 
tive text, making their reproduction an easy matter. 

Price, 25 cents 

Priscilla Drawn Work Book — Full-sized details of 
each design are an important feature of this book, and 
by their aid the most intricate patterns can be copied 
with ease. Designs from Porto Rico, Fayal, Germany, 
Russia, and far-off China, besides many in the well- 
known Mexican work, make this book an unusual one. 

Price, 25 cents 

Priscilla Wool Crochet Book — This book consists of 
articles in wool for men, women, and children. The 
section for babies and children deserves special mention. 
Fully illustrated. Price, 25 cents 

Mexican Drawn Work Book — Tells you how to 
select the linen and the thread, and how to arrange the 
work in the frame. Gives illustrations and detailed 
descriptions of fifty different stitches. Price, 25 cents 

Wallachian Embroidery — This beautiful peasant work 
is fully described and illustrated. Many attractive de- 
signs with lessons for working are given. 

Price, 15 cents 



Priscilla Colored Cross Stitch Book, Price, 25 cents 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




014 063 772 5 # 



Tk.« ' 



'S 



Ik 



m 



V 



3 V 




The Most 
Helpful 
Magazine 
For Women 

There are many mag- 
azines devoted to 
stories, many others 
filled with miscellane- 
ous matter of more or 
less value and general 
interest; but there is 
just one magazine that 
specializes in the two 
subjects most closely 
associated with the 
average woman's daily 
life— "Fancy- Work" 
and "Housekeeping*' 
— with just enough 
clever, wholesome fic- 
tion added to give 
zest. That magazine is 

The Modern Priscilla. 



WHAT "FANCY-WORK" MEANS 

When they see or hear the word "Fancy-Work," many people think 
only of Art Needlework. But as used by The Modern Priscilla, the 
expression "Fancy- Work " has a much broader meaning. It includes not 
only Embroidery, in all its manifold varieties, but it includes as well such 
feminine handicrafts and occupations as Knitting, Crochet, Lace-making, 
Weaving, Netting, Tatting, Basketry, Bead-work, Oil, Water-color, and 
China Painting, Stenciling, Art Brass Work, Art Leather Work, Pyrog- 
raphy, and the like. 

In The Modern Priscilla space is devoted to all these subjects from 
time to time, and no other magazine covers them half so thoroughly. 

WHAT PRISCILLA GIVES 

In connection with what is broadly termed "Fancy-Work," THE 
Modern Priscilla gives a three-fold service : 1. It supplies designs in 
infinite variety and of rare beauty (from 50 to 100 each month), with pat- 
terns for those who desire them. 2. It gives detailed and explicit in- 
struction, so clear and complete that any woman of average intelligence 
can gain proficiency in the work that most appeals to her. 3. It provides 
a wealth of suggestions for the practical use and application of the knowl- 
edge thus gained. 

HOW FASHIONS FIT IN 

This last service is especially noticeable in the Fashion Department, 
where in addition to sane and sensible adaptations of the latest modes, 
the use of the most appropriate embroidery is pictured and described in 
connection with each costume illustrated. 

HOW PRISCILLA SAVES ITS COST 

"Fancy-Work," it will now be seen, at least the "Fancy-Work " that 
THE Modern Priscilla stands for, is no frivolous occupation for idle 
hours, but a decidedly useful occupation, that will supply at small cost 
many a dainty bit of wearing apparel or household decoration that could 
otherwise be had only at considerable expense, or perhaps could not be 
afforded at all. 

Many a subscriber has gratefully acknowledged this debt to Priscilla, 
more than a few asserting that a single copy has often suggested econ- 
omies amounting to more than the year's subscription price. 

HOW A GOOD MAGAZINE WAS MADE BETTER 

Much as can truthfully be said about the "Fancy-Work" value of 
The Modern Priscilla, scarcely half the story has been told. 

In 1911 the publishers of The Moder.. Priscilla purchased the well 
known domestic science magazine called " Everyday Housekeeping ," and 
in due season merged it with their older publication, making what has 
well been called a "Double Value Magazine." 

THE MISSION OF " EVERYDAY HOUSEKEEPING " 

"Everyday Housekeeping " is now a distinct and separate section of 
The Modern Priscilla, and it is the aim of the editors to make it of the 
greatest possible helpfulness to Priscilla readers. 

Its recipes are economical, appetizing and nourishing, its special 
articles are authoritative and deal with practical subjects, its hints, helps 
and suggestions are gleaned from the experience of housekeepers the 
country over. 

THE PRICE SMALL — THE VALUE UNUSUAL 

When all the foregoing is considered, even the most critical must ad- 
mit that at $1.00 a year The Modern Priscilla is an exceptional value 
(Canadian subscription price, $1.25) and that its steady growth in circu- 
lation from a few hundred copies 25 years ago to nearly 400,000 to-day is 
but the natural outcome of its policy of helpfulness. 

The news-stand price of The Modern Priscilla is 10 cents a copy. 
Orders for subscriptions should be sent to The Priscilla Publishing Com- 
pany, 85 Broad Street, Boston, Mass. 



